need rappel advice
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I am a newbie. Seems like every time I set up a toprope, get fixed in with an ATC device, with a back-up autoblock, and rappel off the top I start having problems with my rope getting twisted. The rope often overlaps on my device. What are some techniques to get a clean rappel in without the rope twisting |
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I'm not sure I understand exactly what is happening... |
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It is a pita when the the device and hitch are almost next to each other. One thing you could try is cow-tailing your rap device by using some type of sling/cord extension off of your harness. This does offer you a little bit more room to untwist the rope. |
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You might be having problems getting clipped in right. Are you clipping in while looking out over the rappel and then turning around to rappel? If your rope is consistently getting wrapped over itself that might be the problem. Try clipping in while facing the same way that you're going to rappel so that you can't screw it up. Once you get familiar with how the device and rope should look then you can start clipping in and turning around. And if, as it sounds, you're just doing some single-pitch practice rappels, you may want to reconsider using an autoblock. Easy raps are where you ought to get comfortable with your technique, friction, and speed. Save the autoblock for sketchy situations. |
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It is a new rope. I followed a couple of guidebooks on how to uncoil and care for the rope when you first get it to try to minimize kinking but I am a noob and this is my first rope...so it is hard to say if my execution was right . AH the pita affect. I usually set my autoblock close to my device so this also may be affecting it. I will try changing the proximity of my hitch next time at the crag. Thanks for the advice much appreciated! |
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Austin, thanks for the tip. Now that Im thinking about it I often am not facing the direction im rapping off when I am setting up. Thanks for the advice on not using a autoblock for single pitches. I guess as a beginner I feel I should take every precaution I can to backup myself. |
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Hey Jason, |
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I'm going to respectfully disagree with Austin. When you're first getting used to things is a good time to learn good habits like using an autoblock. There are other situations besides the sketchy ones where an autoblock or another form of backup are a simple safety precaution. If you want to get used to going faster or work on your technique then grab a buddy and have them give you a firemans belay so you don't crater into the dirt when you burn your hand and let go of the rope. |
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Thanks Evan. Yep always a stopper knot. Not sure If I fully understand this cow tail technique. Guess I can ask around. Its better if I see it done to get it right. |
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To keep any twists in the rope from making their way to your BRD try putting one strand of the rope on each side of your brake-hand-side leg (right for me). This way your leg separates the strands so the left always feeds cleanly into the left slot and vice versa. |
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The only time I don't use an autoblock is when I have agreed with the first person down to give me a firemans. +1 to extending rappel. |
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Get in the habit of using the autoblock. If you get hit on the head by a rock, swarmed by bees, or have a heart attack, the autoblock will keep you from sliding all the way down to your grisly death! They're easy to use. Some people think they're not cool, or unnecessary. They're only necessary when something unexpected happens! Can you predict that? |
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I got on a fresh rope this summer and didn't have any problems with twisting. My setup is fairly standard, shoulder length sling (24") girth hitched to my belay loop, ATC attached and rope fed through, the device ends up about eye level if not higher. Then about a 24" prussik that is about waist level. As you mentioned before, you have your two pieces quite close together, I think that may be your problem. |
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I know, right; the first thing I think about when having a heart attack is not to look bad while decking. |
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Jason - what everyone else says it right. Safety first - always. (Then teamwork - Arrested Development? Anyone?) My question is for all you dedicated autoblock users out there. Do you really use them on every rap? If you're rapping off a single pitch at your local crag do you use one? I got into canyoneering and climbing at about the same time and using autoblocks in canyons just isn't feasible. 5 people using an autoblock on every rap would make things run dangerously slow. I think I carried that mentality over into climbing and therefore never use autoblocks even though the it wouldn't be as much of a hassle while climbing. I've just always emphasized proper friction (extra biners, leg loop redirects, etc.), knowing various ways to lock off, and wearing helmets to avoid death by rocks and I considered autoblocks to be substitutes for good technique and education. The majority of posts I see on the subject, however, seem to suggest that most climbers prefer using autoblocks. (Although I almost never see them used at the places I climb) Am I just way off? Are autoblocks more necessary than I always imagined? I'm not deriding anyone's technique or practice - just honestly curious. |
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Austin Baird wrote:JDo you really use them on every rap? If you're rapping off a single pitch at your local crag do you use one?Cragging I request a firemans from my partners. If I'm first down in other situations, always autoblock. Takes me ~10 seconds, I keep a biner on my leg loop. |
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Austin Baird wrote:I considered autoblocks to be substitutes for good technique and education.Sometimes, I don't wear a helmet when I'm TR'ing, if I'm confident there won't be any rockfall or dropped gear above me (the rockfall is difficult to predict!). But I look at using an autoblock like I do wearing a helmet. Not as a substitute for good technique, but as a safety device. I've never been hit in the head by a rock, or taken a fall where I hit my head, but I still wear a helmet, just in case the unexpected happens. Same thing with an autoblock - I've never had it save my life, but it might someday. Takes me up to 30 seconds to attach it to my leg loop and put three wraps on the rope. Merely an insurance policy against the unexpected. Each person chooses how much backup and safety they want to incorporate into their climbing. Helmets and autoblocks are no-brainers for me, but I wouldn't presume to tell someone else what to do. Except in the mountains (more loose rock), where I want my partner to wear a helmet. His skull fracture could affect me! (dead partner, no belayer, etc.) |
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Rather than posting on the internet asking about proper rappel technique perhaps your time would be better spent finding someone to climb with? Perhaps this other, hopefully more skilled, partner will clue you into the proper use of a rope and a belay/ rappel device. |
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I've never used an autoblock while rappelling. Does that put me in the minority? I can understand the added safety it gives, but it's never seemed like a huge deal to me. |
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I don't always use autoblocks. If I have a partner sometimes I'll have them give me a fireman's belay. I think that'd be pretty reasonable for canyoneering. Saves lots of time but still adds in that safety component. There are times when I don't use the autoblock, mostly because I forget. That habit formed a long time ago when I used to never use an autoblock because nobody told me what it was. |
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Austin Baird wrote: I got into canyoneering and climbing at about the same time and using autoblocks in canyons just isn't feasible. 5 people using an autoblock on every rap would make things run dangerously slow.Austin I would just add that even in canyons they have there place. Often (not always) on uncertain rappels we will send the first guy down on an autoblock and the rest under a fireman's. I know a few people who have lost control in a canyon rappel and I know you do too. They do add to the time but only one rappeler doesn't slow you down much. I never use them when rappelling under running water since they pose more of a threat than a safety feature in that situation. Although, when in a hurry I don't always do this. I use them quite often while climbing since, like a helmet they don't take much extra effort and add greatly to the safety factor. |