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need partner for to climb otto's route at Independence monument
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May 9, 2016
Looking for someone who has climbed the route before and who can help a beginning trad. climber learn a bit more. available any day until May 24th. Dan Jones 2
Joined May 9, 2016
0 points
May 10, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Smile for the camera.  Me topping out of Pice of C...
I've lead it and in my opinion it's NOT a good route for a beginner. Personally I found the route to be a sandy choss pile. I've lead it and won't do it again. Don't get me wrong it's s fun, unique route but not a good lead.

Then again I'm just some fat, non Colorado native so what do I know.
Chad Miller
From Grand Junction, CO
Joined Nov 8, 2006
149 points
May 10, 2016
I disagree with Chad. Otto's route is as good as it gets for a multi pitch trad route beginner in western colorado. Don't expect Red Rocks and don't expect it to be a gimme. The whole route has good belay stances with chain anchors and each pitch is readily protectable with good stances to place gear. Have fun and go for it. You can bail from any pitch if it doesn't look good. In addition to the normal gear make sure to bring some bigger cams for the second pitch which will probably be the most uncomfortable (minimum of 1 #3 and #4) and bring 1-2 blue tricams with that you'll be able to get gear pretty much wherever and whenever and the upper half of the route is bolted. garrettem
Joined Mar 28, 2008
599 points
May 10, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Smile for the camera.  Me topping out of Pice of C...
All of that is true but the wingate sandstone rather soft and I wouldn't trust those blue tricams to hold in a decent fall.

It's just my humble opinion but I like the granite areas of Unaweep much better.
Chad Miller
From Grand Junction, CO
Joined Nov 8, 2006
149 points
May 10, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Yes
I disagree with Chad as well. Its a good enough route to learn on. You wont fall from climbing, you would only fall if you were being an idiot. If you can climb V2 you can do this route because of the drilled pockets.

Like I always comment for this route, if youre feeling scared or its getting strangely difficult, look around and you will see a perfect pocket to use as a foot or hand.
grog m aka Greg McKee
Joined Aug 29, 2012
115 points
May 10, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Smile for the camera.  Me topping out of Pice of C...
I guess it depends on what a beginner read climber is. I was thinking that it meant in the 5.8 range with little knowledge on placing gear. If you're a solid .9 or .10 leader this climb will be a chossy cake walk where you'd only fall if something breakes off mid move

Then again the locals do say that every time someone climbs this route it gets a little bit harder
Chad Miller
From Grand Junction, CO
Joined Nov 8, 2006
149 points
May 11, 2016
thanks for the tips, now is there anyone who can climb it with me? Dan Jones 2
Joined May 9, 2016
0 points
May 11, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Smile for the camera.  Me topping out of Pice of C...
How much trad experience do you have? Chad Miller
From Grand Junction, CO
Joined Nov 8, 2006
149 points
May 12, 2016
i've done a handful of trad leads up to 5.8. I've never had to build a natural anchor but have studied it quite a bit. I have a basic rack up to #4 cam. looking to learn more about how to gage rock quality when placing gear. shoot me an email if you might want to climb, dtmj77@yahoo.com Dan Jones 2
Joined May 9, 2016
0 points
May 12, 2016
Ottos is about as close to a sport route as a trad route can get. In addition to the chipped pockets there are probably 10-15 bolts? All of the anchors are bolted as well.

You could easily lead the trad pitches with the experience you have. The first pitch is 5.6 maybe? And then the next has a single 5.8 move that is protected by a 4. If it weren't a 2.5 mile hike each way I would jump all over climbing it again.
Chris Schmidt
From Grand Junction
Joined Nov 29, 2012
0 points
May 12, 2016
understandable, thank for the tips anyway. Dan Jones 2
Joined May 9, 2016
0 points
May 12, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Smile for the camera.  Me topping out of Pice of C...
I'll climb it with you Dan. I'm a fatty though. Chad Miller
From Grand Junction, CO
Joined Nov 8, 2006
149 points
May 13, 2016
sweet, i'm available any day but tomorrow, let me know what works. Dan Jones 2
Joined May 9, 2016
0 points
May 13, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Smile for the camera.  Me topping out of Pice of C...
I'm busy Sunday, and not free until Friday till 11am. Chad Miller
From Grand Junction, CO
Joined Nov 8, 2006
149 points


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