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Bug Barn Dance Wall
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YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 105'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Phil & Andy Renolds
Page Views: 2,258
Submitted By: Christian "crisco" Burrell on Sep 1, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (32)
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BETA PHOTO: Bug Barn Dance Wall. 1 Squid Orgy 5.11a 2 Bosko Lo...


Awesome awesome awesome! Without a doubt, one of the best in the canyon.


Ten bolts, chain anchors.


Fifth bolted line from the right on the main face. Climbs to the left of Dreamin' of Reamin', which goes over a roof about 20 feet up.

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Rock Climbing Photo: Christian Burrell on Necrobeastiality.
Christian Burrell on Necrobeastiality.

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By Tristan Higbee
From: Ogden, UT
Mar 25, 2008

Great climb! Good moves on crimps. Onsighted it, but it was a definite struggle. Technical crux might be down low, but I had to fight hardest to not peel off at the last bolt. Good rests on giant holds appear right when you think you're about to fall off.
By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
May 21, 2008

One of the best 11b's in the canyon! You can get a nice rest after each tough part.
By Kyle Hollenback
From: Provo, UT
Nov 4, 2011

I've been climbing for a little over a year, and leading has always scared me. This route was the first 5.11 I've led outside. The features are really fun, and the holds and protection are right where you need them. Didn't get the onsight, but I'll be back for sure! There's no single crux, it's just long and sustained. One of the best routes I've done in the canyon. TR would be hard because of rope drag near the chains, but it's a great lead.
By Canyon Copa
Jun 23, 2012

Fantastic route. Very long with fun moves and good rests. Clipping the last bolt was the hardest section for me. It was very balancy and pulling the rope up through all the draws almost threw me off. After clipping the last bolt there is a slopey, boulder-type top out where I just had to mantle with my hands and smear with my feet to get to the chains. Also it's not quite 105 feet, a 60 meter rope is plenty long with a lot left over (and that's without the stretch).
By Tim Moore
May 2, 2014
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Probably close to the best route in the canyon. Very well protected. A fun quasi roof to go over/around and then very crimpy holds with bad feet between awesome jugs/ledges that give great rest. Awesome belay shade spots and the route is in the sun so if it's hot out might not be the best place.

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