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Neat T 
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YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Charlotte Fox and partner
Page Views: 4,440
Submitted By: Bryson Slothower on Mar 24, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (198)
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BETA PHOTO: about to pull the mini roof just before the chains...

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>


This spectacular route is located pretty much where the trail meets the wall on the Optimator. It is just right of a short tower and shares a start with Hayduke Lives aka. Hayutake. It follows a huge right facing corner system for 100 ft. to a 3 bolt anchor with slings. There is a plaque.

Start out with a low angled shallow hand and finger crack to a large horizontal flake, a lieback move gets you to a ledge at about 20 ft. (.75 to #1 camalot)From the ledge climb 15 ft. of stem box with tips crack on either side. (small TCUs) Above the stem box climb a tight hands corner up to a small roof for about 25 ft. (#0.75 to #1 Camalot) Above the roof climb perfect hands in a corner for 30 ft. (mostly #2 Camalots, 1 #3) Just below the anchor pull the crux roof/bulge. (#2 Camalot)


Small TCUs up to #3 Camalot, extra #2 and #3s.

Photos of Neat Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: leading neat
leading neat
Rock Climbing Photo: Katie Sheehan belaying Max Rodatz
Katie Sheehan belaying Max Rodatz
Rock Climbing Photo: Jackie leading Neat, nearing the roof crux
Jackie leading Neat, nearing the roof crux
Rock Climbing Photo: Me on Neat.
Me on Neat.
Rock Climbing Photo: Amanda leading Neat
Amanda leading Neat
Rock Climbing Photo: Haines showing perfect technique.
Haines showing perfect technique.
Rock Climbing Photo: the whole route
the whole route
Rock Climbing Photo: at the 1st roof just before the tight hands sectio...
at the 1st roof just before the tight hands sectio...

Comments on Neat Add Comment
Show which comments
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Oct 14, 2005
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Great route on a great wall. My gear: blue and yellow aliens for the start, 2x0.75 Camalots, 2x#1 Camalots, 4x#2 Camalots, and 4x#3 Camalots. The blue Camalots are a little tight midway through the final crack. The roof pinches back down to #2 Camalot size right before the chains.
By Dave Brock
May 19, 2008

Probably one of the BEST 5.10's that I have ever done. High quality rock, excellent gear placements...And fun route. Highly recommend it as a warm up route for other Optimator Wall routes.
By claytown
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 16, 2009

How does this thing only get 2.5 stars!?!? Get past the initial sandy ramp and into a stellar corner. Hands for the most part. Great route!
By Ty Gittins
From: bozeman
Jan 30, 2011

would have to agree...better than 2.5 stars...exciting roof near the chains
By chosspector
From: San Juans, CO
Mar 19, 2012

FA Casey Yorkunas
By Greg Gavin
From: SLC, UT
Apr 23, 2012
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

#3 friends are the best fit for this corner instead of baggy 2 camalots or tight 3 camalot.
By Crag Turkey
From: Holladay, UT
Apr 1, 2015

So much fun! The thin section down low was a breeze, lots of different ways to climb it. Greg's comment about the Saggy #2's is mainly true in the top of the crack, right before the roof. If you only have Camalots I'd recommend running it out a bit here and protecting at the roof, which I felt was tighter than the top section prior to the roof. Either rock the sagtastic #2's, run it out, or get some friends or metolius cams. Personally I placed two saggy Camalots and a tight #3 (that almost got stuck).
By Derek Field
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Oct 10, 2016
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This is a very high-quality pitch with simple protection, not to mention very soft for the grade. The upper half features sustained 5.9 hands capped by a beautifully sculpted roof that pulls easily on high jams. For those with BD camalots, leave the 3's behind (seriously, they won't fit) and instead take as many 2's as you've got (four or five oughta be plenty).

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