Nearer To Thee
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 3.8 from 44 votes
Type: | Sport, 320 ft (97 m), 2 pitches, Grade II |
FA: | Mark Tarrant, Richard Wright, 6/05 |
Page Views: | 6,414 total · 28/month |
Shared By: | Mark Tarrant on Jun 4, 2005 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
This splendid 2-pitch route starts from the belay atop EOA's second pitch. It climbs the beautiful, exposed face left of the last two pitches of EOA, paralleling Higher Calling, to the top.
Start: Climb the first two pitches of EOA (.10b, can be combined with about 16 clips, 175'), to a semi-hanging belay at two open shuts. An alternative (and better) belay can be found by stepping right one bolt below the EOA open shuts onto a ledge with a chain anchor (This is the P2 anchor for Eternal Sunshine).
Pitch 1: 5.11c, 10 bolts, 2-bolt anchor, 75'. Angle up and left on an 85 degree slab past 4 bolts to the start of a 20' crux section. The wall then steepens but the holds get bigger (.10+) as you reach a sensational belay ledge. (Note: If you start from the ES P2 anchor, you will need two extra draws -- 12 total).
Pitch 2: 5.10d, 9 bolts, 2-bolt anchor, 75'. Climb straight up the steep wall to the crux section between bolts 3 and 5. The crux starts on steep rock, moves right, around an arete and onto a balancy slab. 30' of moderate climbing on a licheny slab leads to the top where you'll find the anchor for EOA about 10' back.
The end of the route is less than perfect, but it's not enough to detract from the overall high quality of the line. The first two pitches of EOA are also surprisingly nice. The appeal of the route is that it gets you all the way up the wall, somewhat moderately, with good protection and superb position. This climb is named in remembrance of my grandfather, L.E.O., 1/8/17--5/31/05, X O.
Start: Climb the first two pitches of EOA (.10b, can be combined with about 16 clips, 175'), to a semi-hanging belay at two open shuts. An alternative (and better) belay can be found by stepping right one bolt below the EOA open shuts onto a ledge with a chain anchor (This is the P2 anchor for Eternal Sunshine).
Pitch 1: 5.11c, 10 bolts, 2-bolt anchor, 75'. Angle up and left on an 85 degree slab past 4 bolts to the start of a 20' crux section. The wall then steepens but the holds get bigger (.10+) as you reach a sensational belay ledge. (Note: If you start from the ES P2 anchor, you will need two extra draws -- 12 total).
Pitch 2: 5.10d, 9 bolts, 2-bolt anchor, 75'. Climb straight up the steep wall to the crux section between bolts 3 and 5. The crux starts on steep rock, moves right, around an arete and onto a balancy slab. 30' of moderate climbing on a licheny slab leads to the top where you'll find the anchor for EOA about 10' back.
The end of the route is less than perfect, but it's not enough to detract from the overall high quality of the line. The first two pitches of EOA are also surprisingly nice. The appeal of the route is that it gets you all the way up the wall, somewhat moderately, with good protection and superb position. This climb is named in remembrance of my grandfather, L.E.O., 1/8/17--5/31/05, X O.
9 Comments