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Talking Headwall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Angry Muppets T 
Big Balls S 
Discontinuance (Continuance post-rockfall) S 
Fat Bastard S 
Foops T 
Fortis S 
I Love Big Jugs S 
I Want a Big Truck T 
Leading Should Feel This Way S 
Little Balls T 
McMurray must be Castrated T 
Ne Plus Ultra S 
Pure Energy S 
Send Town S 
unknown, 5.10 S 
VROS Arête T 

Ne Plus Ultra 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
Page Views: 3,014
Submitted By: Keegan Dimmick on Apr 30, 2008  with updates from Phillip Ledet

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (49)
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BETA PHOTO: TR set up on this route to the right of climber.


This is the second route from the left at the Talking Headwall. Start on the featured face and climb through a large overhang. Beware of rope drag through the overhangs. Use a longer sling on the last draw before the anchors, the biner can bind against the ledge and open the gate.


Second route on the left at the Talking Headwall.


5 bolts and ring anchors.

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By Justin Scott
From: Los Alamos, NM
Apr 21, 2012

This route is between I Love Big Jugs and Fortis
By Budman252
Jul 7, 2012

Great route. I did this route on gear and no bolts...protects very well.
By MealyM Mealy
From: Frankfurt
Sep 22, 2012

Great route - there are 6 bolts actually, not 5. Overhangs were challenging, but there are good holds if you look for them. There was a lot of rope drag, so I would bring at least 2 alpine draws.
By Fan Zhang
From: Washington, DC
May 28, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Be careful not to extend too much the draw at the last bolt before the roof/crux. Failure to clip next bolt will result in decking on big ledge half way up the route.
By Charlotte211
Oct 2, 2015

I've toproped and leaded this route. The top rope was in convienent spot, and my friends, (who don't lead) enjoyed this. I feel like this is easier than the 5.8 right next to it, though.

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