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NE Face of Saddle Crag 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 500'
Original:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Melinda McClelland, David Sampson, Manny Rangel
New Route: Yes
Season: cool weather
Page Views: 1,111
Submitted By: manuel rangel on Nov 11, 2006

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Exiting The Spiderhole on The Chemical Ali Memoria...


The route follows a distinct crack system up the right side of the east face. Pitch 2 goes up and left on easy rock to gain upper crack. Pitch 3 has crux at start, hand traverse left and gain second crack, nice hands to belay at final crack and top. You could try to wander north at summit to find rap for Funnel of Love and TR that route or wander south and down to small grove of trees where we rapped to exposed slab, unroped and 4th classed north to large boulder with sling for second and final rap; use double 60m ropes.


Start at the far right side of the east face of largest dome in the east end of Main Area. Two starts are possible, from house sized boulders, work your way thru to easy crack (Chemical Ali 5.2) heading up to bolted anchor. For start #2, the slabby bolted line (Tough Shiites, 5.7)


Doubles in mid range cams, nuts, hexes: first belay bolted, others are not.

Photos of NE Face of Saddle Crag Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Tough Shiites, 5.7 on the Al Qaeda Arete, Saddle C...
Tough Shiites, 5.7 on the Al Qaeda Arete, Saddle C...

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By Gary Schenk
Nov 5, 2007

The bolted line was put up in April, 2004 and named Tough Shiites, 5.7. The crack to the left was climbed the same day and named Chemical Ali, we rated it 5.2. This was when the two sets of anchors were established.

"MDM Dome" has long been known as Saddle Crag.

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