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Northeast Face Direct
5.6 YDS 4c French 14 Ewbanks V UIAA 12 ZA S 4b British Steep Snow R
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Routes in Mt. Formidable
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Northeast Face Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Steep Snow R |
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| Type: | Trad, Snow, Alpine, 1200 ft (364 m), 11 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Jens Klubberud and Loren Campbell, July 20, 2002 |
| Page Views: | 1,811 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Dane Burke on Feb 2, 2014 · Updates |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure at Newhalem Crags March 1st to mid-July
Details
Peregrine falcons select nest sites on cliffs in the Upper Skagit Valley, including the Climbing Management Areas of Newhalem West (Ryan’s Wall) and Newhalem East. As required in the NPS Superintendent’s Compendium, these areas will be closed to all public from March 1st to July 15th of each year, or until the young falcons have fledged or NPS staff have determined that nesting will not occur on a specific wall during this period. Access Fund, Washington Climbers Coalition and NPS partner on a volunteer raptor monitoring program to determine nesting activity. Contact the NPS and/or WCC for updates.
Description
Ascend the Formidable Glacier to the low point of the NE face. Find a good spot to cross the moat and climb approx. 80m up low angle dirty 4th (no pro). Traverse left to an obvious couloir. Climb the couloir (50-60 degree snow or AI2, rock pro to right) and pull over the chockstone at the top. Make another short traverse left then ascend directly up the face on low-5th with occasional steeper steps no harder than 5.6. Keep an eye out for the "duo-lith", an obvious boulder split by an off-width. Climb past it, gaining the N. Ridge a couple of rope lengths beyond. The easy, scenic simul-climb along the ridge crest is over too quickly but the views from the summit are more than adequate compensation.
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