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Mt. Formidable
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NE Face Direct T 

NE Face Direct 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b R

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 11 pitches, 1200', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b Steep Snow R [details]
FA: Jens Klubberud and Loren Campbell, July 20, 2002
Season: July to September
Page Views: 578
Submitted By: Dane Burke on Feb 2, 2014

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photo/overlay by Matt Lemke


Ascend the Formidable Glacier to the low point of the NE face. Find a good spot to cross the moat and climb approx. 80m up low angle dirty 4th (no pro). Traverse left to an obvious couloir. Climb the couloir (50-60 degree snow or AI2, rock pro to right) and pull over the chockstone at the top. Make another short traverse left then ascend directly up the face on low-5th with occasional steeper steps no harder than 5.6. Keep an eye out for the "duo-lith", an obvious boulder split by an off-width. Climb past it, gaining the N. Ridge a couple of rope lengths beyond. The easy, scenic simul-climb along the ridge crest is over too quickly but the views from the summit are more than adequate compensation.


light alpine rack to 3"

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