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NE Couloir 

YDS: 4th French: 1 Ewbanks: 2 UIAA: I ZA: 2 British: M 1b AI1-2

   
Type:  Trad, Ice, Alpine, 700'
Original:  YDS: 4th French: 1 Ewbanks: 2 UIAA: I ZA: 2 British: M 1b AI1-2 [details]
FA: 6/9/15
Season: late spring to early summer
Page Views: 166
Submitted By: applewood on Jun 9, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: NE Couloir topo

Description 

NE Couloir - grade I, 4th class *, AI1-2 700'
From Honeymoon Pass traverse SW along the east slope below the ridge crest to the cirque at the base of the main face. The 700+' NE Couloir is the longest most continuous narrow snow gully on the left side of the North Face. From the head of the cirque veer left staying on the snow as much as possible (slope is mostly about 40 with up to 55 degrees at the top, with a couple of steeper sections at the 1/3 and 2/3 points). Crux is at the upper narrow section (on first ascent this steeper section was melted and required scrambling up steep wet and muddy rock - if continuous with snow it would probably be more difficult, perhaps AI3, and require belays and gear - medium nuts and pickets).

Note; an emergency descent would be difficult even with a rope from the crux section due to the scarcity of good anchor placements.

Finishes on the summit ridge about 30' east of the summit register.

Descend by walking off the NW summit ridge to access the NE Ridge above Little Tiffany Lake. Follow the old unmaintained trail down the NE Ridge to the main (#373) trail at Honeymoon Pass.

Location 

Follow trail #373 past Tiffany Lake to Honey Moon Pass, from there head SW to the small cirque and climb the longest narrow couloir on the left side of the north face. Descend by walking off the NW ridge of Tiffany and then head NE above Little Tiffany Lake to join the main trail at Honeymoon Pass. On first ascent it took 5 hours round trip from trailhead.

Protection 

Depending on conditions.... at least an ice axe is needed. If the snow is continuous it would probably require a rope and a few medium nuts and pickets to protect.


Photos of NE Couloir Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Top of NE Couloir.
BETA PHOTO: Top of NE Couloir.
Rock Climbing Photo: View east to the Okanogan Valley from middle of cl...
View east to the Okanogan Valley from middle of cl...

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