NE Buttress of Chair Peak
||Ice, 4 pitches, 600', Grade III
|Original: ||AI2-3 Mod. Snow [details]|
|Season: ||Late-Dec to Mid-Feb|
|Page Views: ||2,986|
|Submitted By: ||Dave Schultz on Feb 4, 2013|
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BETA PHOTO: Our line up the NE Buttress in September
just climbers left of the N Face of Chair is the NEB. There are two variations to start, a left and right. Left goes more directly up to trees; right goes up and right and then turns back left to a belay in the trees. The second pitch is a snow climb to the ice step. Third pitch is an ice step. Four pitch is more snow to the summit.
Follow the winter trail out of the upper lot of Alpental to the bottom of the drainage, head up and right and then trend left heading for the Chair Peak Summit. Cache your approach gear in the bowl at about 5200 feet and boot up the east ridge of Chair and then follow the ridge to the start of the route.
mixed bag; I used a single cam, piton, and screw for the technical pitch; pickets for the snow.
View of the entire route, minus the last little bi...
BETA PHOTO: climbed Jan 2, 2016
Looking down from a belay just below the ice step
looking down from the first belay on the right var...
Aug 12, 2013
I had some fun on this in the summer, easy 5th/4th!
By Cat Cahoon
From: Seattle, WA
Jan 31, 2016
Started by climbing the hidden ramp up and right to a mixed bit (placed cams and clipped some fixed pins) and belayed in the trees. Then a long pitch to the base of the ice step (we had a 70m and still simuled some). This pitch protected well with small cams and a picket. The ice was vertical for a body length or so and in good shape. Last pitch was pure snow climbing to the crest. Glad to have a 70m for the raps. (climbed 1/2/16)