Type: | Trad, 2 pitches |
FA: | Mark Drier |
Page Views: | 2,890 total · 11/month |
Shared By: | richard berk on Dec 31, 2001 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
If you come around Big Butt from the west Nazi's Demise and Smegma Burns are on the far right or east side of the south face. Both start in a thin corner.
This is a great route. Nazi's Demise follows a very obvious large flake. Place pro high in the starting corner with a descent size sling to prevent rope drag. Follow great jams under the flake left and up until you can reach the top of the flake. Though the jams are a little strenuous, I would have a hard time calling the 1st pitch 10b (Hubbel's guide) - more 9+. The second pitch follows a dihedral with a thin crack. At one time there were rap slings on top of the 1st pitch. From the top of the second, you can walk off to the right. According to Hubbel's guide, you can add a third pitch to this route.
This is a great route. Nazi's Demise follows a very obvious large flake. Place pro high in the starting corner with a descent size sling to prevent rope drag. Follow great jams under the flake left and up until you can reach the top of the flake. Though the jams are a little strenuous, I would have a hard time calling the 1st pitch 10b (Hubbel's guide) - more 9+. The second pitch follows a dihedral with a thin crack. At one time there were rap slings on top of the 1st pitch. From the top of the second, you can walk off to the right. According to Hubbel's guide, you can add a third pitch to this route.
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