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Nazi Love Slaves 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c A0

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 4 pitches, 300'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c A0 [details]
FA: Bill Robbins, Kirk Andriano: 1987
Page Views: 781
Submitted By: Orphaned on Nov 4, 2007

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  • On private land. MORE INFO >>>
  • Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>

  • Route Description 

    Pitch 1: Climb a 3" left-diagonalling crack & straight up a 5.10 slab past a bolt & piton. Gain a ledge and belay.
    Pitch 2: Continue right, along an exposed ramp (5.11a A0), past 2 pitons.
    Pitch 3: Climb straight up a 5.10 offwidth crack.
    Pitch 4: Climb over a roof and up a 5.9 slab.

    Approach 

    Hike to Animal Crackers. Continue 200 yards north of Animal Crackers. The approach is arduous. It took me about 75 minutes.

    Protection 

    I recommend 8 cams(0.4"-2.5"), 8 nuts(0.3"-1"), 32 carabiners & 16 runners(24").

    Descent 

    I scrambled down the north side. I did not dare to rappel using the existing hardware on the route. Rappelling the route might be awkward anyway because it traverses so far right.


    Comments on Nazi Love Slaves Add Comment
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    By tenesmus
    Nov 9, 2007

    Anyone know where this one is?
    By James Garrett
    Nov 13, 2007

    Doesn't ooo's detailed description cover it well enough? You can't miss it!
    By Kirk Andriano
    Nov 23, 2007

    I was one of the original first ascent members in 1987. Glad to see a few folks appreciate the climb.

    Kirk Andriano

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