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Cleopatra's Needle Area
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Navajo Needle West Face 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a C2

Type:  Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 290', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a C2 [details]
FA: Don Doucette, Art Howells, Steve Cheyney, January 1971
Season: Fall and Spring are best
Page Views: 238
Submitted By: Kevin Kent on Oct 13, 2015

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Navajo Needle

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Climb 3 (or 4) pitches up the middle of the west face of Navajo Needle. Mostly aiding; however, there a few spots of free climbing. Go with locals or get permission from the locals who live nearby. Currently there is one man who lives across Todlito wash who is very friendly and receptive to respectful climbers.

P1: 5.9+ C1. Start in a right facing finger crack. After 15 feet there is a large horizontal recess with no spots for clean pro and not much in the way of holds. I stemmed high into this to place a very crucial black/red metolius offset cam. After this strenuous free move it's pretty crusier C1, trending left, with a crack switch, to a sort of poor anchor about 90' up.

P2: C2. Continue up left facing corner, pleasant C1-C2, going up the left side of a shield at the top of the pitch and belaying on a nice ledge. 100'.

P3: 5.8 C2 Start up V-slot off ledge with a strenuous combination of free and aid. Crack widens and requires a few moderate free moves/mantles before a ledge with an intermediate anchor. From there very cruiser C1 up splitter #4 OW to summit. 100'

Descent. Rappel the route with 2 double rope rappels. Summit anchor was beefed up 10/2015.


Right behind Venus Needle.


Triple set or more of cams from purple tcu-#4, 2 sets of stoppers. 1 offset cam was crucial for P1, otherwise I didn't really use any. A new #5 C4 was nice for the top of P3.

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