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(01) The Entrance
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Nature of the Beast 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Lance Hadfield and Joey Tefertiller
Page Views: 1,188
Submitted By: Anthony Stout on Oct 25, 2006

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A very nice route with a tricky start. Begin to the right of a prominent crack going up the wall (Drop in the Ocean). My impression was that the crux was at the bottom though another thought it was at the top. Clip the first and second bolt, and head through a tricky sequence through the bottom moves. Endure through the next few moves and take a few good rests before jamming a crack (or finding something to crimp, if your name is Mike) at the top and hitting some nice jugs above. Could probably protect the top moves with a yellow Camalot if so inclined but not really necessary as a fall from there would be through air.


9 bolts to anchors.

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By Dave Wachter
Mar 2, 2008

Awesome climb. Just be careful not to get hanta virus or rabies from the rat and bat shit in the cave. Trad technique helps a lot up top, but can crimp through a tricky sequence without any jams if you prefer. I can attest that a fall from near the anchors is clean, if exciting (it's steeper than it looks up there). A yellow camalot in the obvious wide hand crack makes the top less committing, but increases the pump, especially if you don't pre-place the cam.

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