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Redgarden - Tower Two
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Natural Mystic  

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Drew Spaulding, Dan Hackett, 09/02/15
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 563
Submitted By: Drew Spaulding on Sep 3, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: The expansive upper headwall of Tower Two.

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  • Description 

    Natural Mystic is another direct line that gains the summit of Tower 2 from the T2 exit ramps. It climbs about 15'-20' feet to the right of the final pitch of Shasta.

    Start directly above the largest tree below the T2 exit ramps. There is a nice belay on the upper, chocolate colored ramp in a shallow, right-facing dihedral. That "loose" corner leads upward toward the triangular roof, but I climb the steep pocketed face instead, starting with a door knob in your left hand. Tricky pocket placements and some bold, slightly runout, pocket climbing leads up to the lower, left side of the triangular roof. More face climbing leads to the obvious, rightward-trending crack system for 80 more feet to the top of Tower 2. This starts out overhanging and stays fairly steep for the remainder of the pitch.... It is super fun and has good gear!

    Protection 

    Lots of nuts and thin gear and hand size pieces protect this wild and exposed pitch! Bring thin - 3 1/2".


    Photos of Natural Mystic Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Natural Mystic climbs through the left side of the...
    BETA PHOTO: Natural Mystic climbs through the left side of the...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing out the lower, left side of the triangula...
    Climbing out the lower, left side of the triangula...

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