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Natural features 5.11d/12a TR 
Sucker Crack 5.12d, The TR 

Natural features 5.11d/12a 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 35'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
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Page Views: 279
Submitted By: Evan Winn on Sep 24, 2009

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Description 

Follows the permanent, natural features in the real rock style construction and uses no bolt on holds.

Start on the far left side of the wall. Either start on a hidden side-pull around the arete and climb straight up the arete to opposing side-pulls at 10 feet (5.11d variation, but reach dependent) or start slightly to the right at a V-shaped feature and climb leftwards through underclings to the right handed side-pull (5.12a-ish but less height dependent). From the opposing side-pulls, climb up using hidden holds on the arete and holds on the face to the higher V-shaped flake feature near the top. Either crimp and balance your way up the left arete (harder, less height-dependent) or hug the flake using jugs on the right and the left arete to a crimp in the center (more technical, favors a positive ape index) and balance your way to the lip of the wall.

Location 

Far left side of the wall.

Protection 

Top rope.


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By Lynn S
Oct 14, 2009

Seemed a bit chossy and loose in places, maybe it will clean up with more traffic.

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