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The East Quarry
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Asbury Park T,TR 
Battle of the Bulbus S 
Bertha S 
Bluesfish S 
Bottoms Up T,TR 
Chum S,TR 
Crack  T 
Crack Au Lait T 
Curious George TR 
Deepwater Horizon S 
Deer Foot Chimney T,TR 
Defective Agency S 
Emilia's Corner T 
Flying Fish S 
Gargoyle Ju-Ju T 
Good Ju-Ju T 
Goonch, The TR 
Great Wide Shark T 
Hairless Dog S 
Hammerhead T 
Harambe Lives 
Harambe's Mombé 
Hellhound (originally submitted as Viagra Crack) T 
Herringbone T 
Herringbone Direct  T 
Hidden Slab 
High Tide S 
Holy Mackerel S 
Isle of Mouse T,TR 
Jaws S 
Jaws Part 2 (Shark Bait) T 
Land Shark T 
Narrow Face T,TR 
Natural Born Topropers T,S,TR 
Nurse Shark T 
Old Man and the Sea S 
Old Man And The Sea Direct S 
Pigeon of the Sea S 
Pinkerton S 
Pinnacle 2 T,TR 
Play With Your Balls T 
Pretzel Logic S 
Prow TR 
S.S. Minnow T 
Sand Dollar  S 
Sand Shark T 
Sea Robin T 
Sea Urchin T 
Side of Mouse TR 
Slap Happy S 
Tendonkey Punch S 
Tiger Shark T 
Tiger's Woody S 
Weakfish S,TR 
Wooly Bully S 
Unsorted Routes:

Natural Born Topropers 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: D. Redosh, LP?
Season: cool weather
Page Views: 1,260
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Jan 14, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Doug enjoying the 48 F temps in this radiator.

Description 

This is a short but fun TR in the right Quarry area. Doug found it. The climbing is more interesting now that a few big blocks were cleaned. It is a bit less solid at the top, but you get a nice mantel & a cool toe hold in the middle.

Still, there is dirt and lichen that may lead to whining, but there are some interesting lines over here, especially that El Matador-like double dihedral.

Thinking about this a bit more after cleaning it, it could be lead. There is a spot for a small (blue or green Alien) right below Doug's foot in the photo, and then a #1 and/or #2 Camalot in that foot hold up and right from Doug in the photo, but it would be R at least.

Location 

This is about 200 yards to the right of The Mummy. This is probably the 2nd leftmost climb in this right Quarry area.

Protection 

When it was first climbed, you could use probably like 30+ foot of sling to get that big chunk of rock up there, then a couple #2 Camalot and a #1 Camalot placement up there, and about 12 feet of sling to extend over the edge.

Now, with the bolts on the adjacent Holy Mackerel and Hairless Dog, you can clip 5 bolts to make this a retrobolted sport climb.

If you want to climb this as a trad climb, ignoring the bolts, you can use 2 green Aliens, 2 yellow Aliens, a red Alien, and a #2 Camalot. Done this way, the first piece comes after you make a challenging move.


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By mike c
From: golden
Apr 4, 2009

I led this route and thought it was more like a 5.7. A tricky start with poor gear leads to a sweet, little, dirty, finger crack. Good small cams. I angled right after the finger crack to join the anchor atop Pinkerton. A nice name would be Barnacle.
By Zachariah
Dec 3, 2011

I lead this route a few weeks ago. The start is R after you stand up on a jug about 10 feet up you can get a few good small cams in a discontinuous crack above your head. Moving up past that there is a slightly larger placement (not a # 1, maybe a 0.5 or 0.75 Camalot). Then you can clip the last two bolts on Hairless Dog and the anchors. If you are a solid 5.9 leader, this will be no problem. I agree with Mike probably not harder than 5.7.

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