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BETA PHOTO: Natilik takes the prominent crack system in the ce...
This old school trad line is undoubtably the most classic of all multi-pitch routes at Ceuse. Five unique and memorable pitches finish at the top of the beautiful plateau of the Ceuse massif with amazing views of Gap and the hautes-alpes region. Don't forget to bring your camera.
P1- (10c, 70ft) Climb the obvious hand and finger crack passing a small block/roof at about 40ft, continue up to belay at a small alcove with some fixed gear.
P2- (10d, 100ft) Climb the classic hand, big hand and fist crack and belay at the top.
P3- (5.9+, 90ft) Climb the to the gigantic roof, then traverse left to a fixed anchor and belay.
P4- (5.9, 70ft) The 'ramping pitch'. Make an unforgettable traverse right, clipping fixed pins along the way and belay at its end.
P5- (5.10b, 100ft) Face climb to the top using the water groove system clipping a few old, rusty bolts. There is one good belay bolt at the top.
Descent: The first option is to rappel the route using two 60m ropes. The more simple method is to rap the via ferrata using one rope, a 60m might make it, but a 70m is safer. This requires walking down along the plateau for five minutes to reach the via ferrata.
Look for the obvious crack system just past a metal fence at sector Natilik.
This is a trad climb. Standard trad rack, heavy on the big hand and fist sized pieces. All anchors are fixed.
Keny having fun 'ramping' across the 4th pitch.