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|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
Not sure about the origin of the route name on this one but I was told that Nathan Martin has never climbed it. Reguardless this route is a must do if your up for the grade!
The climbing is hard as soon as you leave the ground with a steep tips lieback that I found to be the crux. Better fingers with some stances allow for easier progress as the crack gradually widens to .75 size. A few moves through these ringlocks get you to another stance and a bolt just past halfway. Above the bolt a second crux is encountered which consists of splitter .5 fingers with no feet. The final 10' to the anchor are chill .5 fingers with feet but you'll probably be pretty pumped so keep your guard up.
Next route left of Coyne Crack Simulator, right near where the trail hits the wall.
The gear for the start is pretty precise, I found that a .2 Camalot with a blue Mastercam stacked above it worked well for the initial moves off the ground. Depending on your reach a blue Metolius (if your shorter) or a green Alien fit perfect for the next piece. The rest of the gear is as follows:
(2).3, (3).4, (5).5 & (3).75, all in Camalots, and one bolt to clip. Anchor is two bolts with chains.
By Sean Nelb
From: Indian Creek
Nov 1, 2016
Really fun route! I thought the tips corner at the beginning was easier than it first looked. The 0.5 Camalot crack above the bolt was definitely the crux for me.