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Nasty Boys 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Fred Knapp, Lynn Hill 9-29-09
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,961
Submitted By: Fred Knapp on Sep 29, 2009

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  • Description 

    This is a route I began bolting 20 years ago. Before I could finish it, the OSMP banned bolting. When Chris Beh bolted a line to the right, it was obvious that I could use his finish. Nasty Boys traverses right from Just Another Boy's Climb at about the third bolt. It's a continuous line with a few mini-cruxes and a big pump. Some long runners carefully placed can be useful for rope drag. I'd also recommend reaching down and unclipping the first bolt above the belay on Boy's Climb after you've clipped the second. It's a little run to the second bolt on the traverse (but I fell from there on my first burn and it is totally safe). With a long runner on this bolt, you could clip it before making the hard moves. All in all a super airy, pumpy route.

    Maybe I should rename the route for the 2000s. I named it for a song in the late '80s.


    The Slab. Begins up Boy's Climb and makes a traverse to the right before heading up.


    Maybe 15 QDs including the anchor.

    Comments on Nasty Boys Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Pinklebear
    Jun 18, 2011

    Aiiieeee, this climb: so nasteeeeee! Great stuff.

    Longs slings help in places as does unclipping a draw in one or two spots once you're into a higher one. Be ready to pimp down as you launch into the traverse -- which begins from the third/fourth bolt on pitch two of Boy's Climb. Best to clean on toprope due to its diagonalling nature.
    By Ben Sachs
    Aug 5, 2013

    I assume this involves clipping the old "nasty" cold shut? It looked rusted and cracked when I was up there, pretty sketch. I doubt people will ever do this with the current hardware situation. It does look kinda cool.

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