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Carchost
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Narsil  S 
Shagrat S 

Narsil  

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a R

   
Type:  Sport, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a R [details]
FA: Dave Rone, Trent Slichter, Denise Hardesty, Jim Slichter
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 279
Submitted By: Dave Rone on Sep 20, 2013

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Description 

(Originally named Anduril, but name taken) Mantle onto a ledge to clip the first bolt, then work up and right to some really big knobs where you can get the fixed pin. Continue up to a bolt then move right (crux) to better holds and and another bolt. From here it is a very long runout (5.7-5.8) to a good ledge and the next bolt. Continue to the top passing a couple more bolts along the way.

The route was done ground-up, some drilling was done from hooks, and was completed on the second effort. The first attempt failed when a handhold broke off, resulting in a 35' fall from 40' up, as well as lots of blood, stitches, and rock rash. Second effort went much better, but the route needs one more bolt.

The sword Narsil was broken in the overthrow of Sauron at the end of the Second Age.

Location 

The route is on the north side of Carchost. The easiest approach is to hike about 75' downhill from Goldberry Lane and then veer left to the route, which climbs up just right of the obvious corner.

Protection 

Take 8 draws for bolts and a few long slings for horns and knobs. There is a rappel anchor on top.


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By Mike Housiaux
Administrator
From: Rapid City
Aug 18, 2014

Summit register says FA Paul Muehl, Pete Delannoy July 10, 1983?
By Dave Rone
Administrator
From: Eau Claire, Wis
Aug 19, 2014

There is no summit register at the top of Narsil.
By Mike Housiaux
Administrator
From: Rapid City
Aug 19, 2014

I'm thinking of the corner route. Is this route in the middle of the face then I know it.
By Wilson On The Drums
From: Woodbury, MN
Aug 19, 2014

You most likely climbed Shagrat, 5.10+ FA Paul Muehl and Pete DeLannoy 7/10/83. It's listed as being on the middle/north side of Carchost.
By Mike Housiaux
Administrator
From: Rapid City
Aug 19, 2014

that's the name of the route! Thanks Willy I was just waiting for someone to say it. Awesome sustained route. Willy seems to have infinite knowledge on this place!!!??? :)