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Just Say No to With Apologies to Walter B T,S 
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Like Honey T,S 
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Narrow Arrow Overhang T 
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With Apologies to Walter B T 

Narrow Arrow Overhang 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA:  FA(3p): Greg Donaldson, Richard Mathies, 68 FFA(p1 L): Darryl Cramer, Terry Lien FFA(P2 via traverse): Dick Cilley
Page Views: 3,086
Submitted By: Drewsky on Dec 28, 2008

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Description 

To the right of Deal With it Ranger/Natural Log Cabin, climb ledges to a left facing corner with cracks and some face climbing. Climb up the face and corner past two bolts to an anchor (.10c). Above, climb through the shallow chimneys via tricky stemming moves with small gear (hard to place) to another ledge with an anchor (.11b/c). Lieback the arete/corner above past two bolts to the roof (.12d). A very tough move leads over the roof to a new anchor about 15 feet above (.12). A little runout in spots and absolutely spectacular. First free ascent of the modern pitch is probably by Ben Gilkison. The crux lieback section was likely first freed on toprope by Chris Schlotfeldt in the 90's.

Location 

Starts between Deal With it Ranger/Natural Log Cabin and Narrow Arrow Direct in a left facing corner with a crack on the face of the corner. Above the top anchors, it looks possible to continue climbing via corners and some broken rock to a higher anchor below the Salad Fingers corner. This appears to have been climbed in the past but I'm uncertain of the difficulty.

Protection 

4 bolts at the beginning, 3 on the top section (including the anchor below the lieback). Nuts (include a couple of RP's) and cams small to 1 inch. There are no less than 3 chain-equipped anchors on the route! The first marks the end of yet another 'short version' (.10c). The second is at the end of the first pitch proper, right before the crux .12+ arete. The third is at the end of the 'full' free pitch. Descent from the top anchors is possible via a single 70m rope.


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Comments on Narrow Arrow Overhang Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 1, 2017
By blakeherrington
Oct 23, 2012
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Ben Gilkison did the FA/FFA - in 2008 and gave a grade of "hard .13a" (someone else agreeing on .13- ). Chris Schlotfelt pulled the pins and cleanly TRed the (formerly C1) section above the second anchor, calling those moves .12d.

From above the full 35m P1, the climbing is just a few meters of 5.8 chimneying with hand cracks to a pedestal ledge. It's easy to reach the anchor between P2 and P3 of NAD, or to step left to the anchor below Salad Fingers.
By Drewsky
Jan 26, 2013

In light of that, it probably was Ben who got the FA. The bolts have been there for at least ten years and I don't think anyone else has done it. I think Super Dave had worked on it at some point but from what I gathered the roof proved to be a shutdown for taller folks. .12d seems fair; I mean, 5.13 is supposed to be REALLY hard, right? Also, I changed the route description to include the updated FFA info.
By blakeherrington
Jan 9, 2015
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

How about "two V6 boulder problems, separated by a strenuous & crucial gear placement" - it's accurate, but doesn't quite roll off the tongue.
By Drewsky
Jan 10, 2015

Math:

2xV6 boulder problems and one thuggy 5.11 start
V6=5.11b/c
(5.11b/c)+(5.11b/c)+(5.11)=5.12

We'll call this the "Index Grading Proof"
By Jon Nelson
Administrator
From: Bellingham, WA
Jan 10, 2015

You mean that V6 = Index 11b/c? But if you stack them, doesn't the rating go down? Ben would like that.

About the proposed names, this is for the free version of the entire aid line? How about 'Narrow Arrow Overhang does not care"?

Beautiful line, but I have yet to try it.
By Mike dandy Patz
Jun 21, 2015
rating: 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c PG13

Stellar FFA by BG! I'd say better and I think quite a bit harder then 10 % extension.

As blake highlighted the two v6 boulder problems are not really "separated" by anything resembling a restful position, but rather are "connected" by a strenuous crucial gear placement in the overhang.
My subjective breakdown of difficulty of sections between rest...

Stage 1: Approach pitch to second anchor = cryptic 5.11 R ---> huge rest
Stage 2= Strenuous V4/5 ---> bad rest in finger lock ---> (V5/6 getting to roof + extremely pumpy gear placement + V6 navigating roof). Last boulder problem is intense.

stage 2 could be reduced to v4 ---> bad rest---> v7/8 highball( from finger-lock rest to hand jam in stance above roof)

Still working on my index math mastery but that comes out to at least 5.11 B ++
By Ben Gilkison
Aug 27, 2015

If NAO is 12d, then Narrow Arrow Direct is 12a.
By Drewsky
Aug 28, 2015

NAD is stout .11d, AKA .12c. .12a is a bit easier than .11d and way, way easier than .11b. .12d is about on par with .11b.
By Ol Toby
From: CA
Apr 8, 2016
rating: 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c

This line catches your eye right away as the line of strength on the right side. Superb, regardless of the rating! One of the best single pitches I've ever done.
By Stamati
From: Bellingham, WA
Feb 16, 2017

The arete! Oh my god, the arete!
By James Ellis
From: Seattle, Washington
Jun 26, 2017

Can someone remove Raddam6's comment? I'm not sure why he felt the need to use derogatory language (during pride weekend no less) but it is completely inappropriate for this site and not what the Index community is about.
By Jon Nelson
Administrator
From: Bellingham, WA
Jun 26, 2017

"Can someone remove Raddam6's comment? I'm not sure why he felt the need to use derogatory language (during pride weekend no less) but it is completely inappropriate for this site and not what the Index community is about."

Thanks James. I hadn't noticed the derogatory nature so much as the incomprehensible and rambling nature of it. So, there it went.
By braddean Lignoski
From: Seattle
Sep 1, 2017

Gear Update:
Even though this page has not mentioned the gear at the roof, I thought I'd give an update, since folks ask each other for gear beta and I don't want anyone to get hosed by outdated information.

Until recently, it seems everyone placed a .5 C4 to protect the (alleged V6) boulder problem at the roof.

That placement recently pulled due to rock breaking, ripping out a BIG chunk of the surrounding stone. That placement is shallow and sketchy at best now.

I ended up placing a blue Totem near the lip of the roof, though it is a hair finicky and tipped-out. Regardless, the .5 C4 is probably not what you want any more.

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