REI Community
Narcolepsy Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anuresis T,TR 
Chimney Sweep T 
Don't Jump Back Crack T,TR 
Dream Slate T,TR 
Dreamscape S,TR 
Ethiopian Kid T 
Involuntary Release T,TR 
Mr. Sandman T,TR 
Narcolepsy T,TR 
Narcosis T,TR 
No Doze T 
Suture Fancy T,TR 
Turn Of The Sentry T 
Up A Cliff Without a Ladder T,TR 


YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 2,610
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Jan 1, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (44)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: 4) Mr. Sandman 5) Narcosis


This climbs the right crack in the deep chimney, staying right of the prow. The climb is easy, protects well, and is enjoyable.


No fixed gear. Long slings for the anchor help. I used the chockstone and a little extra gear. For the climb use medium to large gear.

Comments on Narcosis Add Comment
Show which comments
By John J. Glime
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 24, 2004
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

If you climb in the Narcolepsy area, climb this route. Climb softly, however, because it is hard to tell what holds are bomber and what ones are waiting to pop out. Don't let this be cause for concern as it eats up protection. It is also really easy, with varied climbing, and a fun chimney. I was pleasantly surprised and look forward to climbing it again.
By Skyler Penrod
Jul 8, 2008

Was a great lead, but was a little surprised not to find a chain anchor at the top. If not wanting to leave any gear it is easy to walk to the anchors of both climbs to the right of this one.
By Tryhard Scoville
From: Sandy, UT
Aug 15, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Fun, easy, and protects well. In the chimney, good jams and jugs keep the grovel factor down. May look a little intimidating from the ground, but not harder than other 5.6 climbs in the area. I wouldn't recommend lugging the BD#4 - I didn't find a place for it.
By Garret Nuzzo-Jones
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 18, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

An underrated climb. Great movement in the corner with a section of squeeze chimney that is so few moves it's actually pleasant. Make sure you bring some extra long runners to figure out the chains at the top.
By Allen Briggs
Mar 14, 2015
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

This route now has anchor chains hanging just left of the chockstone.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About