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YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
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Submitted By: Tavis Ricksecker on May 15, 2010

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Blocky climbing leads to a devious fingercrack on a less than vertical wall.


On the cliffs above the roadside boulders.


Gear to 1.5"

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By J. Albers
From: Colorado
May 15, 2010

Seems like you could add a little information other than 'its on the cliff above the boulders'.
By Patrick Smith
May 30, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Turn up after the big, rusty pipe on the road. Climbs an obvious fat finger/thin hand crack going up through and above a plant filled pocket. Very 5.8, if it seems harder you're missing a hold or jam. Easy to protect, lots of nuts (and rests for them) lower into .5-2 camalots, small TCUs or C3s at the bottom. Bolt anchors.

Looks like there could be more to climb above it, although we didn't give it a go. It may be worthwhile to work the crack above the anchors.
By BruceB
From: Reno, NV
May 24, 2012

The beginning is so-so and the crack only moderately interesting. Not sure why it gets 4 stars in the book. I did go beyond the first chain anchors to climb a couple more feet of a nice dihedral, but the bulge to the ledge above is very loose and dirty. I stepped left to a new set of mussy hooks over another (new?) climb. Exactly 100 foot rap. Better to stop at the first chains.

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