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Narcolepsy Area

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anuresis T,TR 
Chimney Sweep T 
Don't Jump Back Crack T,TR 
Dream Slate T,TR 
Dreamscape S,TR 
Ethiopian Kid T 
Involuntary Release T,TR 
Mr. Sandman T,TR 
Narcolepsy T,TR 
Narcosis T,TR 
No Doze T 
Suture Fancy T,TR 
Turn Of The Sentry T 
Up A Cliff Without a Ladder T,TR 

Narcolepsy Area Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 40.6214, -111.7472 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 16,100
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Apr 7, 2004
Forecast:
This Afternoon

43° | 28°
Saturday

50° | 33°
Sunday

58° | 38°
Monday

55° | 38°
Tuesday

55° | 38°
Wednesday

64° | 41°
You & This Area
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Description 

A shady and cool location, just east of JHCOB Wall, with steep and smooth quartzite.

Mostly bolted, with some trad and mixed routes. Most routes have anchors. A lot of great routes exist here, as well as a controversial one that keeps getting chopped.

Aerial photo here.

Getting There 

Just past JHCOB Wall, hidden by pine trees, resides Narcolepsy.

Two approaches exist:

  • Scramble up the talus field at the lowest point and angle left to find loose trails, until you attain a gully that scrambles up steeply to the cliffs.

  • Park at Stairs Gulch and clamber up the steep bank, follow the trail west taking the right fork past Challenge Buttress and continuing west until you reach the gully and then clamber up to gain the cliffs.

Climbing Season



Weather station 1.9 miles from here

14 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',8],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',2],['5.9',5],['5.10',4],['5.11',2],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Narcolepsy Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Narcolepsy Area:
Narcolepsy   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   
Don't Jump Back Crack   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   
Dreamscape   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   
Chimney Sweep   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Dream Slate   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'   
Involuntary Release   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   
Mr. Sandman   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   
Up A Cliff Without a Ladder   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Narcolepsy Area

Featured Route For Narcolepsy Area
Rock Climbing Photo: so pretty...

Up A Cliff Without a Ladder 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c  Utah : Wasatch Range : ... : Narcolepsy Area
This climb is just left of the twin chimney/crack system. Initially start up the crack "Chimney Sweep" to the right of the climb. Then make your move out of the crack onto the face in time to clip the 1st bolt. Continue up past thin crimps, and very awkward body moves. Clip the second bolt and puzzle out the sequence to the pin. The hands are terrible for a couple of moves. Get past the pin, place a piece, and make your move up the incredibly smooth face devoid of any help. Well any help ...[more]   Browse More Classics in Utah

Photos of Narcolepsy Area Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Narcolepsy area
Narcolepsy area
Rock Climbing Photo: narcolepsy IIRC
narcolepsy IIRC

Comments on Narcolepsy Area Add Comment
Show which comments
By utfreeclimber
From: Sandy, UT
Nov 6, 2006
I climbed at the Narcolepsy area my first time the other day and I must say that the bolting here should become a standard. The bolts protect the cruxes of the routes really well, props to the FA's for reading the rock well and creating safe, exciting runouts. Runouts are brainfood for climbers.

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