Narcolepsy Area Rock Climbing
A shady and cool location, just east of JHCOB Wall
, with steep and smooth quartzite.
Mostly bolted, with some trad and mixed routes. Most routes have anchors. A lot of great routes exist here, as well as a controversial one that keeps getting chopped.
Aerial photo here.
Just past JHCOB Wall
, hidden by pine trees, resides Narcolepsy.
Two approaches exist:
- Scramble up the talus field at the lowest point and angle left to find loose trails, until you attain a gully that scrambles up steeply to the cliffs.
- Park at Stairs Gulch and clamber up the steep bank, follow the trail west taking the right fork past Challenge Buttress and continuing west until you reach the gully and then clamber up to gain the cliffs.
Weather station 1.9 miles from here
14 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',8],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Narcolepsy Area
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Narcolepsy Area
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Narcolepsy Area:
Narcolepsy 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
R Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Dreamscape 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Dream Slate 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Mr. Sandman 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Featured Route For Narcolepsy Area
Up A Cliff Without a Ladder 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Utah
: Wasatch Range
: ... : Narcolepsy Area
This climb is just left of the twin chimney/crack system. Initially start up the crack "Chimney Sweep" to the right of the climb. Then make your move out of the crack onto the face in time to clip the 1st bolt. Continue up past thin crimps, and very awkward body moves. Clip the second bolt and puzzle out the sequence to the pin. The hands are terrible for a couple of moves. Get past the pin, place a piece, and make your move up the incredibly smooth face devoid of any help. Well any help ...[more] Browse More Classics in Utah
From: Sandy, UT
Nov 6, 2006
I climbed at the Narcolepsy area my first time the other day and I must say that the bolting here should become a standard. The bolts protect the cruxes of the routes really well, props to the FA's for reading the rock well and creating safe, exciting runouts. Runouts are brainfood for climbers.