All Locations >
W Virginia
> New River Gorge…
> Summersville (G…
> Summersville La…
> Narcissus Cave
Narcissus
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3.6 from 336 votes
Type: |
Sport, 55 ft (17 m)
Fixed Hardware
(9) |
FA: | Howie Feinsilber 1992 |
Page Views: | 24,794 total · 119/month |
Shared By: | Josh Janes on Feb 11, 2007 · Updates |
Admins: | Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Description
Description provided courtesy of Ladd Raine:
A truly memorable and classic climb!
Start in a short low angle dihedral that has a crack that seeps forever after it rains. Make a few moves into a no-hands rest, clip your bolt and start the pumpy section of the climb, the rest of it! Using jugs, and big crimps make the traverse quickly clipping as you go. Breathe and then get ready for the meat of the route, make a long reach off of some crimps (shorter climbers sometimes dyno, sometimes use a bad intermediate), then grab the big rounded lip, traverse out onto the arete bear hug it and get up a heel, make the hardest clip of your life, then grab some jugs and fight the pump for the last 30 feet of this climb. Beware the pump crux--- Clipping the chains!
This climb is rated 5.12a, although I give it a 12a/b because I've never felt so worked after any other 12a, yet it isn't a technically demanding as many 12bs I've been on.
A truly memorable and classic climb!
Start in a short low angle dihedral that has a crack that seeps forever after it rains. Make a few moves into a no-hands rest, clip your bolt and start the pumpy section of the climb, the rest of it! Using jugs, and big crimps make the traverse quickly clipping as you go. Breathe and then get ready for the meat of the route, make a long reach off of some crimps (shorter climbers sometimes dyno, sometimes use a bad intermediate), then grab the big rounded lip, traverse out onto the arete bear hug it and get up a heel, make the hardest clip of your life, then grab some jugs and fight the pump for the last 30 feet of this climb. Beware the pump crux--- Clipping the chains!
This climb is rated 5.12a, although I give it a 12a/b because I've never felt so worked after any other 12a, yet it isn't a technically demanding as many 12bs I've been on.
12 Comments