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Narcissus Cave
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Narcissus Direct 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
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Page Views: 1,914
Submitted By: Ladd on Nov 15, 2007  with updates from Aaron McCartney

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Narcissus Direct Start

Writing in chalk MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Start on the pockets immediately left of the short dihedral start of Narcissus, work the sequetial pocket moves up to the middle of the traverse of Narcissus. Then, using jugs, and big crimps make the traverse quickly clipping as you go. Breathe and then get ready for the meat of the route, make a long reach off of some crimps (shorter climbers sometimes dyno, sometimes use a bad intermediate), then grab the big rounded lip, traverse out onto the arete bear hug it and get up a heel, make the hardest clip of your life (MUCH EASIER WITH PRE-HUNG DRAWS), then grab some jugs and fight the pump for the last 30 feet of this climb. Beware the pump crux--- Clipping the chains!

Location 

Start on the pockets immediately left of the short dihedral start of Narcissus.

Protection 

6 bolts to a 3 bolt anchor. Bolts 2, 3, 4, and 5 now have permadraws on them.


Photos of Narcissus Direct Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The starting dihedral of Narcissus can be polished...
BETA PHOTO: The starting dihedral of Narcissus can be polished...
Rock Climbing Photo: the direct start is V5+ ish
the direct start is V5+ ish

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