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Nanotechnology 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA:  Dustin Stephens, John Flunker in 2013
Page Views: 155
Submitted By: Taylor Roy on Apr 13, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Description 

This is the obvious, 85 degree wavy slab behind Belly of the Beast. Lots of puzzling 5.10 moves, a very definite crux at the 5th bolt and some adventurous stemming/chimneying at the end.

Start up a left-facing feature and then step left for a strange sequence of slopey vertical grooves. A few bolts of easier climbing with decent feet leads to a very blank section where the hands and feet fade away. Step left across a foot rail, and teeter past tiny ripples and smears to better holds. Move right along good holds and then up a grungy face to a flaring corner. Either stem or chimney past this section to reach a ledge and the chains.

Would get another star if the top was cleaner. Nice adventure route with bolts just before all the hard parts.

Location 

Right of Two Woman Alone in the corridor.

Protection 

Bolts and a two bolt anchor.


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By Dustin Stephens
Apr 13, 2016

You actually move left at the "blank" crux section, then back to the right on good holds.
By Taylor Roy
From: Midvale, UT
Apr 13, 2016

Hi Dustin. Thanks for the correction. I ran out of time this morning and just dashed out a rough draft of the description. I was planning on finishing later today when I had time. Cool route. Any backstory on the name?
By Dustin Stephens
Apr 15, 2016

Not really. Just small holds and technical.

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