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Nancy's Crack 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13 [details]
Page Views: 1,197
Submitted By: Steve Pulver on May 23, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
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Nancy's Crack: April 28, 2013


Tricky start could result in a bad fall. Probably smart to throw in one or two pieces before leaving the ground. You'll get a couple of nice hand jams before the route's over.


First route you come to and most obvious crack, when walking down to Nancy's Thumb/North Fin.


I was able to justify my purchase of a Black Diamond C3 at the start of the route (size 00 I think). The rest of the route used BD #.75,#1,#2, and #3.

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 13, 2016
By 1Eric Rhicard
May 23, 2006

This route is only worth doing if you have done everything else on the mountain. A number of ankles have been sprained or broken on this pile. If you really want to climb a crack do the Old Man, Slippery When Wet, Histoplasmosis, or head to Chimney Rock, The Reef, anywhere but Nancy's Crack.
By Jeremiah Johnson
From: Contoocook, NH
Oct 29, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

Don't believe the negative hype; a very good route if you're into shorter, tricker climbs. Don't blow the start.
By joshf
From: missoula, mt
Nov 25, 2007

This route is not very fun, EFR is absolutely right with his other route suggestions. If you get bored or have done these, there are a couple fun moves on this route. The pro is crap for a good part of the route, there are a couple good pieces near the end but ankle busting is a possibility.
By James DeRoussel
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 28, 2008

This may a be a good one to top rope, which can be done by climbing up the west side of Nancy's Thumb via Ben There Dun That (5.7) or the Regular Route (5.4). If you are looking for a crack to lead, Old Man is a much better choice, right around the corner.
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Nov 25, 2009

By TylerGates
From: Olympia, WA
Jun 20, 2010

I'm glad I didn't read these comments until after doing the climb. I definitely enjoyed it, I just wish it was longer. I had no problem with pro and put in a bomber hex(BD#3, sideways) from the start. I probably would've hit my feet when clipping my second piece, but I have clipped way higher first bolts before. Rest of the gear were cams listed above.
By Cameron Green
Sep 10, 2010

Definitely a better route to top rope. The first move to get up to the crack is pretty tough (for me, as a beginner)and is the most likely place for you to fall on the whole route. Once you get in to the actual crack, it is a short and straight forward climb. There are two anchors on the top, but if you are going to top rope the climb, you definitely want to set up on the anchor to the right that is a bit below the top of the rock. The other anchor is easier to get to from the top, but if you use it, the rope will pull you off to the left and make the climb much more challenging and almost impossible to get back on the wall if you do fall.
By Alex McIntyre
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 13, 2011

Did this today to regain confidence after being destroyed by Old Man. I thought it was a cool little thing. Just need to be comfortable bouldering a little bit at the start until you get to the .75 placement. I thought the climb was fun!
By Ryan and Jesse Morse-Brady
Apr 28, 2013

I thought the climb had very good movement, and straight forward pro, and good scenery. Likely not PG-13 territory, but blowing the start would be a scary fall on small pro.
By David Adams
Jan 5, 2014

I'm with Alex if you don't mind the initial unprotected moves the route is fun and worth doing.
By Sam Thompson
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 13, 2016

Protection for the early crux is pretty safe in my opinion. Able to get two cams close together in pretty high while standing at the start, then a third after only two moves or so. It's fun and worth doing.

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