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South Face, Upper Tier
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Carson-Kodas Arete T 
Nancy's Bright Idea T 
Nosferatu T 
Organ Grinder T 
Psychological Rescue T 
Republicans on Crack T 

Nancy's Bright Idea 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: J. Gonzales, N. Jensen, C. Delker, 7/88
Page Views: 103
Submitted By: Adam P H on Jul 5, 2016

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Entering the lieback


Fun liebacking and slab to a wandery finish.

P1 (5.8): 15' of easy slab to a ledge. Lieback the right facing, slightly right leaning crack (5.8). When the crack runs out, clip an old bolt and slab up the low angle arête (5.6). Make your way to the tree up and right to belay..

P2 (5.5?): Enter the dirty gully directly behind the belay tree. Follow it to the top, optionally take the crack heading directly up. Anchor at a tree.


Belay from the tree right of Organ Grinder and Republicans on Crack. You'll see the right facing lieback crack with a ledge on the right 10ft up. The crack starts above ~15ft of easy slab to a ledge.

Walk off the back.


Standard rack. One old bolt. Wide gear useful if you'd like to sew up the easy second pitch.

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