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Nancy Boy's Nightmare 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 130'
Original:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Dean Brault, Jim Scott
Page Views: 631
Submitted By: Daniel Cohn on Feb 7, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Erica Bigio cranks the roof.

Description 

Start following a faint crack system. There is limited but sufficient pro. Turn the roof crux, which is bolt protected. Follow a few more bolts to a slanting chimney like feature. Get out of that and clip one more bolt before the anchors. The route is about half protected by bolts and is mostly easier than 11-. It is long and nice to do if in the area.

Location 

This route starts about 50 feet to the left of Under the Weather, the huge corner. There are several huge boulders. Start on the rightmost one under a faint crack system. You will see one bolt right over the roof. Go for that. There is a bolted route to the right.

Protection 

Light rack no larger than #2 camalot and a few draws. There are 4 bolts and a two bolt anchor. Belay the second from above and walk off or rap down with 2 ropes and collect the draws later.


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By 1Eric Rhicard
Apr 4, 2010

There is now a set of anchors at 35 meters so you can hit the ground if you lower off with a 70M rope. Or you can still take it to the top and walk down.
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Dec 18, 2010
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

a really fun line. technical moves and just enough gear to keep it safe without making it a cakewalk.
By Paul Zander
From: Neuchatel, CH
Jan 8, 2017

I believe this is incorrectly labeled as a bolts only route in SQL3, probably want some gear for this one.

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