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Dreimal kurz gelacht 6c T,S 
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Namenslose Kante 5a T,S 
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Namenslose Kante 5a 

YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 9 pitches, 1100', Grade IV
Original:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c [details]
FA: 
Season: Spring-Autumn
Page Views: 1,135
Submitted By: Colin Winter on Jul 24, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: Namensloser Turm, with the scramble up to the base...

Description 

One of the easiest, and most popular, routes at Bockmattli.

Much of the climbing is 3rd and 4th grade (french) terrain. Nevertheless, the line is quite aesthetic and, as the name implies, airy (particularly the crux pitches in the middle). Rock quality is quite good, though there is some loose stuff on various bands along the way.

All in all a very worthwhile climb for the grade.

Location 

The route is on the Namensloser Turm, the first tower as seen from the Bockmattli hut.

Follow the very obvious trail from the hut and, as it begins to zig zag up the large couloir, break left (again, on a well traveled but smaller trail) to the base of the wall and up a small gully to the start of the climb (with a blue marker and an anchor).

The route is not conceived for abseil descent, and to do so would be quite tedious.

The walk off from the back side is extremely straightforward, following a clear trail back to the large couloir, where it adjoins a hiking trail that zig zags down to the hut.

Protection 

The route is bolted, albeit spaced in the easier terrain. The more difficult sequences are very well bolted. A small assortment of mobile gear can compliment the in situ stuff very well.


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