Nameles Corner
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 2 from 1 vote
Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
FA: | Mark Sprague |
Page Views: | 976 total · 7/month |
Shared By: | M Sprague on Sep 10, 2012 |
Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
Description
About in the middle of the Sporty area, where the trail makes a little jog up to the cliff and makes a T at the base of Owliola, head back right on a little dirt ledge under the offwidth start of Sporty Owl to find, above a short slab, a nice steep arching corner with a finger crack.
Approach the corner from the right so you can protect, (not the left, as the Handren guide says), by doing a couple moves up the blocks in the gully and mantling up on to the slab where there is a crack running up its edge and then traversing into the corner.
Jam and stem your way up the corner until the crack splits around a block. Continue straight up (right) to do a tricky exit move and up to the left side of the Lady of the Lake ledge and a bolted anchor. (Splitting left at the block to the first pitch anchor for Sporty Owl makes a cool alternative and dryer start to that route )
Fun climbing and well protected. If the corner was a little longer it would get a full 3 stars from me.
For a classic link up walk right across the belay ledge to the belay of Lady of the Lake and do its wild second pitch 10+/11a crack above.
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