Route Guide    Partners    Forum    Photos    What's New    Journal        
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Comatose Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Animal Cracker T 
Comatose T 
Conception T,S 
Cookie Time in Budapest T 
Egg Hunt T 
Family Feud T,S 
Gingerbread Man T 
Lost Face T,S 
Name Unknown T,S 
Preying Mantis T 
Pull the Plug S 
Resurrection T 
Resurrection Ramp T 
Rusty Redneck T,S 
That's the Way the Cookie Crumbles T 
Trick or Feet T,S 
unknown S 
Unknown 2 T,TR 
Waltzing Matilda T 

Name Unknown 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 923
Submitted By: Mike Reardon on Apr 27, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Description 

Take the slabby face (crux) to the bolt 20 feet up. This leads to a nice finger crack that fits a blue TCU, then the route steepens as the holds get bigger. Clip a second bolt, stay close to the arete on your left and balance your way up to a two bolt anchor on a ledge with a tree

Location 

Right of Comatose, right of Praying Mantis/ Beeline and the 5.8X route with the aluminum hanger up high, 15 feet left of Resurrection locate a bolt 20 feet up a slab to the right of a gully

Protection 

Small Tcu's, up to 2", 2 bolts, bolted anchor, the route is 150 feet but you can rap to the gully with one rope


Comments on Name Unknown Add Comment
Show which comments
By Scott Gilliam
From: Raleigh, NC
Dec 28, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Fun route with minimal gear. Testy/heady to the first bolt if you take a direct line. Easier climbing above to a small cam high in the crack; lower the rock is suspect. More fun climbing to and above a couple more small pieces. The climbing to the second bolt is outstanding, fun, easy, and quite run out. Instead of finishing up the arete, we finished at the Resurrection Ramp anchor.
By Russ Keane
Jul 15, 2016

Pretty sure this is named "Arete Ride" in the guidebook. 5.8

I didn't really like it. The rock down low has significant growth, and a crumbly weird "kitty litter" feel. Awkward high fist bolt that is too far right. I had a BAD BAD time trying to get up into the crack on the bulge. Got stuck way above my last piece, in a nasty little position. Awful, insecure slabby climbing with horrible gear. It was practically an epic for me. I fought through it and pulled the move, but it was sketchy and not fun or aesthetic at all.

I think the better line is Ressurection Ramp, unfortunately. Sorry Sean/Mike, I know you worked hard to develop this area! I just wanted to give my impression of for future climbers to read.