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Lower Pivot Point
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HU S 
Linear Equation TR 
Naught For All S,TR 
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Pivot Point T,S 
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Sat Nam S 
Trickster T,TR 
Waltzy T,TR 

Sat Nam 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 35'
Original:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Eddie Phay
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 309
Submitted By: Jared LaVacque on May 29, 2013

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Sat Nam Front view.

Description 

A nice short mainly solid(for Seward Highway) sport route at lower Pivot Point. The business of the route is making powerful left trending moves up underclings/pockets and pinches. The crux starts just as the hands reach the 1st bolt and continue until just below the 3rd bolt.

Note: Even though this route appears solid, it is still on the Highway and susceptible to freeze and thaw breakage. As a note the grade became more solid after I pulled a 15 pound (was an undercling pinch) block off just before the 3rd bolt.

Location 

Located on the right side of lower pivot. The 3 bolt line in the middle of the short overhanging bulge.

Protection 

Rope and Draws


Photos of Sat Nam Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Sat Nam Topo//Post Cleaning(Gardening)
Sat Nam Topo//Post Cleaning(Gardening)
Rock Climbing Photo: Sat Nam Beta.
Sat Nam Beta.
Rock Climbing Photo: Sat Nam Upper.
Sat Nam Upper.

Comments on Sat Nam Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jared LaVacque
Administrator
From: Anchorage/Grand Junction
Jun 10, 2016

6/10/16 Sat Nam is probably closer to .13b now, versus .13a. At the end of the crux, 7 years ago, I broke a 15 pound undercling off, on my 2nd lap on the route. This hold(when intact) made the transition from just under the 3rd bolt much more fluid. It is now more thrutchy and the boulder problem keeps going for a couple more moves.
This route is now comparable in grade, though slightly taller than Harpooned on the Glenn, which is consensus .13b. So, for similar height and a boulder problem, .13b is probably correct.

I cleaned the route from 3rd bolt to anchor and most of the holds were under lichen and a lot of moss/debris fall. Having done this route every couple of years, yet not since 2012, as the last time, it has definitely seen no traffic to the anchor....and the holds cleaned were pretty necessary to gain the now severely rusted anchors.

I will retro the anchor and bolts if those are deemed questionable soon. Stay tuned for updates :)