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YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Dave Bingham - 1990
Page Views: 366
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Sep 8, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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An understated classic! Nairobi throws multiple cruxes at you - kicking off with pumpy moves departing a block and committing to the face before traversing right and moving up past several tough bulges. Steep slabby climbing and possibly high in the grade.


9 bolts. Having the draws in place (and possibly a few long draws) takes the sting out of this route. Otherwise clean airtime is definitely possible!

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By bheller
From: SL UT
Oct 7, 2014

I'd been eyeing this one for ages and finally got on it. Expect hidden, cryptic holds and sequences that drastically depart from the bolt line. More trad than sport. The first third is great, the finish was not. I second the difficult clips (poor bolt placements up high) and it being high in the grade.
By dave bingham
Mar 5, 2016

err, yeah, truth be told, I meant to move the anchor down a bit to avoid the horrible final slab moves. I'd recommend bailing at the last bolt - it's still solid 12a to there! I don't recall moving too much out of the bolt line though...
By Josh Janes
General Admin
Mar 5, 2016

Forgive me for being the lone dissenter, but I really enjoyed all the climbing on this route. I do think some of the clips were tough, but losing the final cruxy slab would be a shame.
By dave bingham
Mar 6, 2016

haha. Josh - I did give it 3 stars in the old book, so I liked it too! Can't wait to go for a review, probably get my butt kicked!
By Ian Cavanaugh
May 31, 2016

Just did this thing this weekend for the first time. I never thought the bolts were in difficult to clip spots, just difficult to stay on the wall with only one hand. The final move at first seems impossible, but with a little gym climbing creativity you can pull through the final slab move with relative ease. Amazing route, far more difficult that most 12a's at the city.

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