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Nairobi 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Dave Bingham - 1990
Page Views: 415
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Sep 8, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Description 

An understated classic! Nairobi throws multiple cruxes at you - kicking off with pumpy, off-balance moves departing a block and committing to the face before traversing right and moving up past several tough bulges. The anchors, which are clipped from from a mail slot jug, are guarded by an improbable but brilliant crux move. Steep, slabby goodness and possibly high in the grade.

Protection 

9 bolts. Having the draws in place (and possibly a few long draws) takes the sting out of this route. Otherwise clean airtime is definitely possible!


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By bheller
From: SL UT
Oct 7, 2014

I'd been eyeing this one for ages and finally got on it. Expect hidden, cryptic holds and sequences that drastically depart from the bolt line. More trad than sport. The first third is great, the finish was not. I second the difficult clips (poor bolt placements up high) and it being high in the grade.
By dave bingham
Mar 5, 2016

err, yeah, truth be told, I meant to move the anchor down a bit to avoid the horrible final slab moves. I'd recommend bailing at the last bolt - it's still solid 12a to there! I don't recall moving too much out of the bolt line though...
By Josh Janes
General Admin
Mar 5, 2016

Forgive me for being the lone dissenter, but I really enjoyed all the climbing on this route. I do think some of the clips were tough, but losing the final cruxy slab would be a shame.
By dave bingham
Mar 6, 2016

haha. Josh - I did give it 3 stars in the old book, so I liked it too! Can't wait to go for a review, probably get my butt kicked!
By Ian Cavanaugh
May 31, 2016

Just did this thing this weekend for the first time. I never thought the bolts were in difficult to clip spots, just difficult to stay on the wall with only one hand. The final move at first seems impossible, but with a little gym climbing creativity you can pull through the final slab move with relative ease. Amazing route, far more difficult that most 12a's at the city.
By Josh Janes
General Admin
Aug 30, 2017

I got on this on the last day of a trip back in 2014 and didn't have time to redpoint. I finally took care of unfinished business three years later. I ended up hanging long slings on four of the bolts, but I'm not sure I'd move any of them - and especially not the anchor! The final crux, once you figure it out, is memorable and totally makes the route.

I love this climb - it doesn't look like much but has some of the most brilliant face climbing I've done in the City. Deserves more stars.

NB: The grovel at the start can be avoided by climbing the initial pillar from the left and then downclimbing into the route. Also, Nairobi goes into the sun at 1 PM in the summer... it'd probably be a good idea to execute the last few moves before then!

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