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Devil's Rejects
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Nacimiento del Diablo T 

Nacimiento del Diablo 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Wolfe, Maxson, Green
New Route: Yes
Season: anytime the road is open
Page Views: 181
Submitted By: Furthermore on Oct 1, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: Route topo. Pitch 1, 5.10 - yellow. Pitch 2, 5.1...

Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Nacimiento del Diablo starts up an easy offwidth crack on the right prow of Devil's Rejects. Although the climbing doesn't look that good, it has a surprisingly awesome finish which is much harder than it appears.

Begin with some 5.7 climbing. Although you're climbing up a wide crack, there are plenty of features around the crack to avoid the OW battle. Sneak under an arching slot which clamps down into a body squeeze.

Transition out of the squeeze to an exposed, fantastic, hand crack that traverses upward (crux). The crack narrows, and just when you think you're not going to be able to escape, exit up and right onto a ledge with a large boulder. Belay here.

Rappel from a small tree above the ledge with the boulder into a narrow canyon on the backside of the climb. One might be able to downclimb off the ledge with the boulder; it is fairly exposed and dirty (low-mid fifth class?).

Notes:
-A 60m will NOT work for top-roping this climb.

-For those who are above our trad leading pay grades and feel adventurous:
Pitch 2 - Continue up the arete (low 5th), hand traverse below a giant block, and follow a seam (appears to be another hand crack) as it traverses above the entire face. Somehow surmount the roof (5.11-12?) and finish up a wide crack to the top of the formation. A lead bolt or two may be required to surmount the roof.

Protection 

Nuts & a double rack. You may want triples in hand sized pieces and an optional BD C4 #5.


Photos of Nacimiento del Diablo Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Entering the squeeze.
Entering the squeeze.
Rock Climbing Photo: Glen on the hand traverse.
Glen on the hand traverse.

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