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The Adamants
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Adamant- Turret- Austerity Traverse T 
Direct Northwest Ridge of Outpost T 
East Peak of Gothics - "North East" Ridge T 
Houdini Needle(s) "Std" Route & Houdini-Pythias Traverse T 
Iron Man- Gibson/Rohn T 
Mt Thor - East Ridge T 
N E Ridge of Pioneer T 
NorthEast Ridge Mt. Austerity (Nester Ridge) T 
Pioneer via Pioneer Pass & East Ridge T 
South Buttress, Adamant Mountain T 
W. Face of Quadrant's So. Peak ("Cross-Hall")  T 
West Buttress of the Horn T 
Unsorted Routes:

N E Ridge of Pioneer 

YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c A1

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, Alpine, 1500', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c A1 [details]
FA: R Hall, S Latham, M-J Cross, & T. Russler 1981
Page Views: 50
Submitted By: Robert Hall on Jan 31, 2017

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BETA PHOTO: The N E Ridge of Pioneer

Description 

5.7+ / 5.8- A-0 / A-1

This is route #502 in the Jones guidebook.

Take the glacier past Pioneer Pass and swing around to the west side of the buttress. Climb up a snow slope (hopefully still there with glacial recession) to a notch in the ridge.

Follow the ridge all the way. Mostly easy rock, reasonably solid (don't stray too far from the crest) until confronted with an obvious jamcrack.
Up this (5.7 / 5.8 A0/A1) and then on to the top.

Jones indicates there's a slightly easier ( 5.7 "R") but unprotected variant on a face to the left (east) but I don't recall that.

Descend via the East Snowfields route through Friendship Col

Protection 

Reasonable rack...recollection is the crux crack was 1" to 3" wide.


Photos of N E Ridge of Pioneer Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The Route climbs to ridge crest to the left (west)...
BETA PHOTO: The Route climbs to ridge crest to the left (west)...
Rock Climbing Photo: Topping Out
BETA PHOTO: Topping Out
Rock Climbing Photo: The (Chris) Jones Route in the background
BETA PHOTO: The (Chris) Jones Route in the background
Rock Climbing Photo: higher up
BETA PHOTO: higher up
Rock Climbing Photo: Steve Latham approaching the rock
BETA PHOTO: Steve Latham approaching the rock
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking Up
BETA PHOTO: Looking Up

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