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Mystère 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 160', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Jean-Claude Néolet, 05/2010
Season: spring/summer/fall
Page Views: 78
Submitted By: Antoine Grenier on Jul 6, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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BETA PHOTO: A- Lavement double 5.10c B- Mystère 5.8

This cliffs is insured by the FQME MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Pitch 1 5.8 13B 30m
1st pitch is best, only do second pitch if you want to top out. You can rap from 1st pitch (anchors available)Fairly sustained 5.8 climbing. Not pumpy but you will have to smear a bit and expect a funky offset slab 2/3 of the way up first pitch. Great little layback to get off this slab.

V1 5.8 13B 30m
Same start but take the second ramp and follow to the same anchor.

Pitch 2 5.8 7B 19m
From the belay, traverse left to join a large corner. Continue up to a large ledge. climb the last bump.

Location 

You need to climb on a small dirt and rock step slab to access the base of the route.

Protection 

Bolts all the way up...spacing is good, no runnouts on first pitch. Belay / rappel anchors at top of first pitch. Stickclip for first bolt recommended but not absolutely necessary.


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