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Palmreader Wall
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Madame Salami TR 
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Palmreader T 

Mystic Teflon 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Todd Gordon, Cyndie Bransford and Tom Atherton, February 1990
Page Views: 518
Submitted By: C Miller on Jan 1, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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BETA PHOTO: "Mystic Teflon". Photo by Blitzo.

Description 

The patina face left of Palmreader is a gritty but fun climb that utilizes several black intrusions for holds along the way.

Certainly not as good as Palmreader but a quick tick if in the area and the rope is out.

Protection 

3 bolts (5/16"), pro to 3" for anchors


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By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Apr 12, 2007
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Short with a few fun moves. A small nut was helpful before before reaching the first bolt, as I had to make 5.9+ move to reach the bolt. Like Chris said, A nice tick when combined with Palmreader.
By tom donnelly
From: san diego
Dec 10, 2007
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Fun route. You can place some gear before starting and stepping off the approach boulder. The upper crux seemed hard to me (10d+)
By Adam Kimmerly
Apr 12, 2010

I agree with Tom - I placed a green alien to protect the initial reachy/exposed moves up to the first bolt. A cruxy move past that one led to easier smears up to the second bolt, followed soon after by a reachy clip out right to the third bolt. Repeated attempts to unlock a 5.10c sequence just left of the third bolt or directly past it stopped me each time. My final attempt left me cranking on miniscule crimps in the varnished rock attempting to high step to the next decent foothold. Feeling the crystals beginning to rip holes in my finger tips, I gave up, grabbed the draw, pulled up onto the better footholds, and finished off the route. None of the options I tried felt easier than 5.11a.

My second managed the upper section clean on TR, traversing below the third bolt to a series of features and smears leading up the lighter colored rock few feet out to the right. She felt that variation felt more in line with the 10c rating.

I see the lines drawn on the topos indicating the route moves up left of the third bolt, but I'm curious how others have climbed this route.

Fun, technical climbing, and one that I'll go back to for the redpoint if I'm back in the area.

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