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Mystic and the Mulchers 

YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c [details]
FA: Schlinkmann, Guilmette,Fisher and Pee Pee, 7/27/85
Page Views: 2,653
Submitted By: Jim McGuire on Jan 1, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (33)
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Midway up Mystic and the Mulchers.

June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


Low angled face climbing along a finger crack that eats small wired stoppers best describes this climb. It's better to approach from the east side as the more direct or western line encounters steeper, vegetated and generally disgusting terrain.

From the pleasant, flat staging area under New Wave and Broken Tree move right two cracks beyond the start of Everlasting to the Mulchers crack start. Meander up the low angle crack plugging in small wireds at will. The crack steepens near the top and the crux comes just above a mini-roof by a bolt. The 3 bolt belay is just above on a nice flat platform for the feet, 150 ft. 5.8-. Rap the route.

The northeast corner area of the tower is great for a day full of climbing. It offers a veritable cornucopia of terrific one pitch classics.


Lots of wired stoppers. Some cams up to 2.5 Friend size.

Photos of Mystic and the Mulchers Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Siva after the Crux Move.. On the right side of ph...
Siva after the Crux Move.. On the right side of ph...
Rock Climbing Photo: The belay on Mystic and the Mulchers.  The crux is...
The belay on Mystic and the Mulchers. The crux is...

Comments on Mystic and the Mulchers Add Comment
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By John Gunnels
From: Gillette, WY
Aug 6, 2004
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

For the "intermediate" leader: If the North Face and New Wave look like I-90 during peak tourist season, the give this route a try. Very nice moves with great pro... just pay close attention to the vegetation down low. It tends to grow quite thick...
By flynn
Dec 7, 2007

Amen to the caution about the vegetation: this climb can look like a high-angle garden, but the climbing is actually much nicer than you expect.
By Joe Dawson
Jun 1, 2009

I do not agree that the pro on this route is great. The pro is decent. The climb is not quite runout, but the crack is discontinuous and you may have to go 15 to 20 feet above a piece before you get another good spot to set pro. There is some hollow sounding rock on the route, and I avoided some holds that looked good but did not pass the tap test. I would recommend this climb to people who are very comfortable on 5.8. Also, the crux at the end of the route is protected by a bolt. When you are at the bolt you are going to start wondering where the anchors are. You will see a two bolt anchor up and to the right, these are not your anchors. Your anchors cannot be seen because the are hidden by a bulge. Dont despair, the are 15 or 20 feet directly above the bolt and you will find them shortly.
By Curtis Baird
Jun 25, 2017
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13

Currently there is a significant amount of loose rock higher on the route. I placed a cam in what I thought was a solid placement and a slight pull made it move. Please be careful and test the rock!

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