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Capitol Gorge
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Mystery Splitter 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Bob VanBelle, 1994
Season: afternoon sun
Page Views: 728
Submitted By: camhead on Jun 28, 2012

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Description 

Short, beautiful splitter located just right of an arete. Looks like harder version of Indian Creek's "Swedin Ringle."

Location 

On the left wall of Capitol Gorge as you enter the canyon on the Scenic Drive. It is visible from the parking lot if you look closely. From the point that the Drive turns to dirt, walk up a wash, then follow an occasionally cairned trail up to the cliffline.

Protection 

Mostly .5 camalots.


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By bvb
Feb 3, 2013
rating: 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13

I did this route in 1994 with a massive group of hecklers questioning my manhood. At the time the bolting situation in the park was sketchy, and I worked at the park and was sort of in charge of enforcing climbing regs, so I never reported it. Duh. It's a great splitter. Might be more like 12c or 12d, but I could never rate that stuff. Very finger size dependent. If you've got Jimmy Deans it'll feel easier. Needs more ascents for a real consensus. We would leave a TR on the thing for weeks at a time and go run laps on it after work. I thought I put in three bolts, not two? Rawl 5-piece with Metolius SS hangers?

Steve Potter flashed this the day we got the bolts in. Eve Tallman, Chris Trudeau, John Wason, Sharon Wason, and Todd Gordon were also there to witness the debacle.
By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
May 7, 2017

Thanks for the history, Bob. By the time I showed up in 1999, we gawked at that thing, got spanked on TR many times, and consensus from the IC regulars was 13-, but nobody around knew who got the FA (or Joe and Shelley were keeping mum), we all just assumed Steve Hong - pretty sure he FA'd that long 5.12 pitch in Grand Wash near the practice cracks and back then Steve was pretty much superman without the cape.

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