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Mystery Spire 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 200', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Tatum & Burcham
Season: All-day shade
Page Views: 157
Submitted By: Derek Field on Nov 20, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: Mystery Spire topo


This is the original line on Mystery Spire, with a really unique crux.

Pitch 1: Climb delicately up ledgy cracks to a bulge where a fixed piton protects a tips seam (crux). Wrestle past a bit of offwidth and finally jam up a gorgeous hand crack to a shoulder about halfway up the spire. Meager options for belay. (5.10-)

Move the belay 25 feet left along the ledge to a two-bolt chain anchor. Note that this is the station used for the second rappel.

Pitch 2: The business. Scamper up through the limestone band, plug a couple cams (extend slings as long as you dare), and negotiate an extremely heinous roof traverse. (old school 5.10+)

Pitch 3: Walk over to the right side of the ledge and squeeze up an easy chimney to the base of the summit blocks. Make a few unprotected face moves across and up to a slung juniper on the northeast (tallest) tower. (5.8 R)

Rappels: (single 60m rope) From the slung juniper on the northeast (tallest) summit: rap to the chain anchors below P2 and then again to ground.


Start in a chossy corner on the far right side of the north face. The proper line through the basal munge can be discerned by stepping back and locating the nice splitter corner ~50 feet up with a fixed piton just below it.


Single rack to BD #4
One 60m rope

Photos of Mystery Spire Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Wild crux sequence on P2 (2/2)
Wild crux sequence on P2 (2/2)
Rock Climbing Photo: Wild crux sequence on P2 (1/2)
Wild crux sequence on P2 (1/2)
Rock Climbing Photo: P1 corner
P1 corner

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By Bill Lundeen
From: Lee Vining, CA
Nov 21, 2016

Classic Sedona stuff here: wild moves, weird positioning, some great rock & some not so... Overall a worthy route in a stunning location protected by a rather strenuous approach. Derek's idea of climbing Watch Out, Grandpa (superb) first and then scrambling up to Mystery Spire is certainly the way to do it.

Do NOT follow the Bloom/Wolfe guide for the approach! It is not shown in the proper area at all; we were totally cliffed out and had to reverse and retry a number of times to get to upper level where Mystery Spires resides.

Not necessary to bring two ropes as Sedona Rocks! states.
By Derek Field
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Dec 17, 2016

Bill: see approach description on main Mystery Spire page.

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