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> Mystery Spire
Mystery Spire
5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 2.2 from 6 votes
Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 3 pitches |
FA: | Tatum & Burcham |
Page Views: | 1,027 total · 11/month |
Shared By: | Derek Field on Nov 20, 2016 |
Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Description
This is the original line on Mystery Spire, with a really unique crux.
Pitch 1: Climb delicately up ledgy cracks to a bulge where a fixed piton protects a tips seam (crux). Wrestle past a bit of offwidth and finally jam up a gorgeous hand crack to a shoulder about halfway up the spire. Meager options for belay. (5.10-)
Move the belay 25 feet left along the ledge to a two-bolt chain anchor. Note that this is the station used for the second rappel.
Pitch 2: The business. Scamper up through the limestone band, plug a couple cams (extend slings as long as you dare), and negotiate an extremely heinous roof traverse. (5.10+)
Pitch 3: Walk over to the right side of the ledge and squeeze up an easy chimney to the base of the summit blocks. Make a few unprotected face moves across and up to a slung juniper on the northeast (tallest) tower. (5.8 R)
Rappels: (single 60m rope) From the slung juniper on the northeast (tallest) summit: rap to the chain anchors below P2 and then again to ground.
Pitch 1: Climb delicately up ledgy cracks to a bulge where a fixed piton protects a tips seam (crux). Wrestle past a bit of offwidth and finally jam up a gorgeous hand crack to a shoulder about halfway up the spire. Meager options for belay. (5.10-)
Move the belay 25 feet left along the ledge to a two-bolt chain anchor. Note that this is the station used for the second rappel.
Pitch 2: The business. Scamper up through the limestone band, plug a couple cams (extend slings as long as you dare), and negotiate an extremely heinous roof traverse. (5.10+)
Pitch 3: Walk over to the right side of the ledge and squeeze up an easy chimney to the base of the summit blocks. Make a few unprotected face moves across and up to a slung juniper on the northeast (tallest) tower. (5.8 R)
Rappels: (single 60m rope) From the slung juniper on the northeast (tallest) summit: rap to the chain anchors below P2 and then again to ground.
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