Type: Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 3 pitches
FA: Tatum & Burcham
Page Views: 1,027 total · 11/month
Shared By: Derek Field on Nov 20, 2016
Admins: Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

You & This Route


6 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description Suggest change

This is the original line on Mystery Spire, with a really unique crux.

Pitch 1: Climb delicately up ledgy cracks to a bulge where a fixed piton protects a tips seam (crux). Wrestle past a bit of offwidth and finally jam up a gorgeous hand crack to a shoulder about halfway up the spire. Meager options for belay. (5.10-)

Move the belay 25 feet left along the ledge to a two-bolt chain anchor. Note that this is the station used for the second rappel.

Pitch 2: The business. Scamper up through the limestone band, plug a couple cams (extend slings as long as you dare), and negotiate an extremely heinous roof traverse. (5.10+)

Pitch 3: Walk over to the right side of the ledge and squeeze up an easy chimney to the base of the summit blocks. Make a few unprotected face moves across and up to a slung juniper on the northeast (tallest) tower. (5.8 R)

Rappels: (single 60m rope) From the slung juniper on the northeast (tallest) summit: rap to the chain anchors below P2 and then again to ground.

Location Suggest change

Start in a chossy corner on the far right side of the north face. The proper line through the basal munge can be discerned by stepping back and locating the nice splitter corner ~50 feet up with a fixed piton just below it.

Protection Suggest change

Single rack to BD #4
One 60m rope

Photos

loading