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Mystery Spire

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Mystery Spire Rock Climbing 


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Location: 34.91445, -111.84789 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 881
Administrators: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Derek Field on Nov 20, 2016
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BETA PHOTO: From the bottom of Watch Out Grandpa, skirt the ba...

Description 

Mystery Spire is a 200-foot tri-peaked pedestal sitting atop the large buttress/plateau on the east side of Boynton Canyon's entrance. It is visible from the parking lot if you know what you're looking for. The spectacular summit is well worth the effort.

Getting There 

Follow the main Boynton Canyon Trail for 15-20 minutes to the base of Watch Out Grandpa. From there, contour eastward (up towards higher ground, away from the resort) along the base of the wall, bypassing two cliffed-out gullies before finally reaching a staircase-like (3rd/4th-class) chimney that allows easy passage to the upper tier where Mystery Spire is located. There is a faint trail most of the way, which is labeled as "Boynton Upper Vortex Trail" on Google Maps. Total: 30 minutes

A suggested approach for those interested in a full-value experience is to first climb the route Watch Out Grandpa (3 pitches, 5.10+, 3 stars). The final pitch of WOG plops you at the base of Mystery Spire and sets you up for a nice linkup.

Climbing Season



Weather station 5.4 miles from here

3 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',2],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Mystery Spire
Rock Climbing Photo: Mark going inverted on the FA.

Inversion Virgin 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c  Arizona : Sedona Area : ... : Mystery Spire
Inversion Virgin climbs the east face of Mystery Spire. Named for some wacky offwidth maneuvers pulled on the first ascent. Such moves may or may not be completely necessary, but the roof crack is a bear nonetheless.Pitch 1: Start in the middle of the face, stemming a tips crack through several little bulges. Jam a right-arching hand crack to the belay ledge. Many options for gear anchor in and below the limestone band. (5.10-, 90 feet)Pitch 2: Hop over the limestone band, w...[more]   Browse More Classics in Arizona

Photos of Mystery Spire Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up the approach gully to Mystery Spire.
Looking up the approach gully to Mystery Spire.
Rock Climbing Photo: North face of Mystery Spire
North face of Mystery Spire

Comments on Mystery Spire Add Comment
Show which comments
By Kujawski
Jun 15, 2017
Be warned! The chimney has some steep committing moves to get up. Definitely a hassle to get up with heavy packs, had to haul.
By Giselle F
Jul 25, 2017
I didn't find the chimney to be a problem, even with my big heavy pack. It really is like a 3rd class staircase. Pretty classic approach for Sedona. Plus, this chimney is part of a trail on Google Maps!

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