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Mystery Route on Hot Wing Buttress 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 85'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: 2014 or 2015
Page Views: 177
Submitted By: BirminghamBen on Oct 3, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: Mystery Route is in green.


This route starts at the lower right margin of the Hot Wing Buttress on erosional edges and horizontals. Four or five bolts lead off of the ground, up and around the arete on a rampish-cracky section, then through a awkward roof/slot.

Once the slot is pulled, a distinct second section requires a high-step off of the ledge and then a couple body lengths of slab to jugs. Beware the ledge-fall here.

Then, once on the second major ledge, one is faced with a nice crack to the right or a blank bolted face to the left. The lone bolt can also be used as a clean top-out from the crack; a directional and last piece before the ring anchors to the left.

If one continues up the crack to the trough, anchors are not nearby.

I discovered this route in October 2015. It is quite good and I don't know who put it up. It is fairly new. Any info, please add.


Right side of Hot Wing Buttress....right of the Wolfe Wall.


Quickdraws plus a couple small/medium cams for the finger crack finish.

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By WadeM
From: Golden, Co
Nov 28, 2015

Finger crack finish is pretty fun!

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