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Chomping at the Bit T,S 
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Live Wire T,S 
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Vibrator T,S 

Mystery Bolter 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Sport, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Dave Cichon, 1989
Page Views: 2,885
Submitted By: John Bradford on Apr 1, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (71)
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A 70m rope will just work on Mystery Bolter.


This route is technically on the east side of Bumblie Rock, but in the Transformer Corridor. Starts in the chimney and is long with a chimney start that can be a bit tricky. Lots of dishes and rounded knobs, and bolts, lots of bolts. 2 ropes for the rap.


All Bolts and chain anchors. Lts and lots of bolts!

Photos of Mystery Bolter Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Sandy relaxing between thin parts
Sandy relaxing between thin parts

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By Gary Schmidt
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 4, 2008

Really fun route. Has a tricky start for which you might want a bit of pro. The start is definitely the crux! From then on, solid friction cruising.
By David Shiembob
From: slc, ut
Jun 9, 2008

Bolts are pretty spaced out, you can barely lower off with a 70m rope.
By ColinP
Sep 7, 2009

This is a beautiful friction route. Getting off the ground is the crux. The first bolt is extremely high, but the climbing in the chimney is easy. We did two raps with a 60M rope. There's some webbing/rap ring 2/3 of the way up the climb around a hole in the rock near the gully.
By Brian G
Jul 7, 2010

Just climbed this route and the webbing and rap rings mentioned are now gone. We used a 70m rope and had about 1-2 meters left after being lowered. Fun route with a bouldery, finger long start.
By Buddy Tangalos
From: Salt Lake City
Jun 25, 2012

Great rock with scenic views at the top. The start is the most challenging part. Lowered off with no problems using a 70m rope.
By S.Lee
Oct 14, 2013

Agreed that the first few moves are the hardest, after that its solid 5.9 climbing. A few exposed friction moves up top.
By Dan Mathews
Sep 26, 2014

For what it is worth, I did not think the beginning of the climb was the crux or particularly difficult. The first bolt is high though. However, I thought several sections of face climbing were more difficult and quite runout. The bolts are 20 feet apart in spots and the rock is a bit sandy. I thought it was hard and intimidating for a 5.9, at least compared to the other 9s and 10s I did that week.
By Idaho Bob
From: McCall, ID
Jun 26, 2016
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

If you extend your rappel device a 70m works fine.

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