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Mystery Achievement 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Jay Goodwin
Page Views: 2,800
Submitted By: Jason Young on Jul 1, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (83)
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Dad half way up Mystery Achievement on the right. ...

Description 

(EDIT) Well shut my mouth! Please disregard any of the sketchy protection comments in the following description. Apparently it's been retro bolted (and for the better!). The climbing descriptions (crux, etc.) should still be valid.

The crux of this route is probably pulling over the final bulge to the top and/or getting over the scary pro options.

This is a good route to do if you're feeling a little bored with the usual routes that have good protection.

Location 

Follow a right diagonally going crack to a featured face that is located just to the right of "Twist & Crawl". One can use the anchors of "Twist & Crawl". Just be sure to veer left and summit next to them.

Protection 

Bolts!


Photos of Mystery Achievement Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Runout easy bottom, good bolting thereafter.
Runout easy bottom, good bolting thereafter.
Rock Climbing Photo: cool roof feature on top of mystery achievment
cool roof feature on top of mystery achievment

Comments on Mystery Achievement Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 2, 2017
By Vanessa Fabian
From: Twin Falls, ID
May 7, 2013

has since been retro bolted, and is a very fun climb.
By Rob Albert
May 14, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This route is very good, and should not be missed by 5.7 climbers. Fun, safe, a good intro to sport climbing.
By RKM
From: Alpine, Utah and Almo, Idaho
May 19, 2013

Mystery Achievement is no longer a Mystery or an Achievement.
By dave bingham
May 28, 2013

Despite 30+ years climbing at the City, I never climbed Jay Goodwin's "Mystery Achievement", until recently when Jay added bolts. Yes, the new bolts strip most of the challenge, but IMO, the City needs more routes like this to take the pressure off the few well-bolted moderates. Thanks Jay!
By Michael Mahoney
From: Gillette, WY
Jun 9, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Bomber bolts have been recently added. THIS IS NOT AN "R" RATED CLIMB ANYMORE! Jugs the whole way up including over the roof (very fun move) that make this feel like a gym climb. Great Anchors at top. One of my favorites at the City!
By Rodger Raubach
Jun 25, 2013

A 70 meter rope is needed for a single rope rappel, or lowering. Still...tie knots in the rope ends!
By Justin Streit
Sep 6, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Well protected (maybe too many) with bolts now make this climb a City of Rocks classic at its grade. A great route to learn to lead as well since the bolts are so close together.
By TNORM
Sep 29, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

FUN!!!!! Morning Sun. Can use a 60m if you down climb the ramp.
By Dr. Long Arm
Apr 27, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

As fun as it gets for 5.7! Great jugs and an awesome roof pull at the top.
By DavidCollins
From: Grand Junction, CO
Jul 26, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Long and fun! Well protected for a beginning leader once the first bolt is clipped. However, it does take a 5.6/5.7 move to get to the first bolt and this is about 25ft above the ground. Beginning leaders may think about this.
By Andy Shoemaker
Aug 18, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Right up there with "Too Much Fun." This is a great route for the grade, sustained, a little exposure, varried movement, short/easy approach. Could even TR Twist and Crawl once you're up there if you wanted to, with a bit of rope drag of course.
By B-Mkll Mackall
From: Bozeman, MT
Nov 10, 2014

Decent variation that goes up the enticing fingercrack (gear) to the left of the first bolt, joining up with the bolt line above the prominent rail at 1/3 height.
By Derek Cronmiller
Jan 4, 2017

Climbed this 2015, with and without clipping bolts. Fun climb, but definitely memorable when you lead it on gear. bring extra cams or weighty gear to keep your slings from popping off the knobs.
By Jay Goodwin
Oct 2, 2017

There is truth in both Bingham's and RKM's comments. This was a risky lead, though not technically difficult, because the pro was mostly slings on sloping horns - some pretty good, many kind of sketch. I had never seen anyone on it since I put it up - hence the decision to retrobolt it some thirty plus years later.

Original line did follow the crack at the bottom since that offered a place to get some pro. Thought about leaving off the first bolts because of this, but in the age of sport climbing, many carry only draws and very few carry the slings you would need to protect this climb as it was originally protected.

Intent with the retrobolting was to make the climb safe for grade level. Too many bolts now? Sort of agree with this, but suggest you skip the clip if you don't need the bolt. It was too good a route to have no one climb it due to fears about the pro.

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