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> White Dike Area
Mystery 13
5.10a/b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3 from 4
votes
Routes in White Dike Area
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1976 T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Green Giant, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Mystery 13 T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Petit Piton T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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White Dike, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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| Type: | Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | ??? |
| Page Views: | 1,410 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Cale Farnham on Sep 18, 2009 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Access issue - Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc. - open since 2023
Details
Update: per Bruce Hildenbrand: the area has been open since 2023.
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Access Issue: CLOSED - Private Property
Details
This property lies on private property owned by Sylvan Dale Ranch.
It is confirmed by looking at Larimer County Land Information Locator ( maps.larimer.org/lil/?xCent…)
Sylvan Dale Ranch confirmed that they do not want people climbing on their land for liability reasons and safety reasons - they have a horse trail above the cliffs on both sides of the canyon and expressed the worry of a climber topping out and spooking one of their horses while guests of the ranch are on a horse ride.
These climbs lie on private property, and are not open to the public. Please do not climb here.
It is confirmed by looking at Larimer County Land Information Locator ( maps.larimer.org/lil/?xCent…)
Sylvan Dale Ranch confirmed that they do not want people climbing on their land for liability reasons and safety reasons - they have a horse trail above the cliffs on both sides of the canyon and expressed the worry of a climber topping out and spooking one of their horses while guests of the ranch are on a horse ride.
These climbs lie on private property, and are not open to the public. Please do not climb here.
Description
We got this name from the mysterious 13 that was written on the rock. It is a great line just right of the The White Dike.
P1. Climb 60 feet to a nice ledge right before the crux.
P2. 100 feet. Climb the left-facing dihedral up a thin and, at times, shallow seam. After the dihedral, it tops out on another great ledge below a nice hand crack a bit to the right.
P3. 100 feet. Climb the hand crack up to a small traverse then up a fairly wide and somewhat unprotectable chimney. Scramble 20 feet above the chimney for a good belay next to the top of The White Dike!
This has stellar and adventurous climbing! Note: there are old slings for raps above The White Dike and we added a bomber nut for extra pro which is equalized with the slings!
P1. Climb 60 feet to a nice ledge right before the crux.
P2. 100 feet. Climb the left-facing dihedral up a thin and, at times, shallow seam. After the dihedral, it tops out on another great ledge below a nice hand crack a bit to the right.
P3. 100 feet. Climb the hand crack up to a small traverse then up a fairly wide and somewhat unprotectable chimney. Scramble 20 feet above the chimney for a good belay next to the top of The White Dike!
This has stellar and adventurous climbing! Note: there are old slings for raps above The White Dike and we added a bomber nut for extra pro which is equalized with the slings!
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