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Mystery 13 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 250'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: ???
Season: spring summer or fall
Page Views: 686
Submitted By: Cale Farnham on Sep 18, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Eric closing in on the top of P1.

Description 

We got this name from the mysterious 13 that was written on the rock. It is a great line just right of the The White Dike.

P1. Climb 60 feet to a nice ledge right before the crux.

P2. 100 feet. Climb the left-facing dihedral up a thin and, at times, shallow seam. After the dihedral, it tops out on another great ledge below a nice hand crack a bit to the right.

P3. 100 feet. Climb the hand crack up to a small traverse then up a fairly wide and somewhat unprotectable chimney. Scramble 20 feet above the chimney for a good belay next to the top of The White Dike!

This has stellar and adventurous climbing! Note: there are old slings for raps above The White Dike and we added a bomber nut for extra pro which is equalized with the slings!

Location 

It is just right 10 feet of the The White Dike.

Protection 

Standard rack. There were 2 old and rotted bolts on this line as well as an old piton? Not any of them were trustable!!


Photos of Mystery 13 Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: 3rd pitch crack variation on south face.
3rd pitch crack variation on south face.
Rock Climbing Photo: Third pitch chimney.
Third pitch chimney.
Rock Climbing Photo: Great 2nd pitch. Turn the rooflet and keep cruisin...
Great 2nd pitch. Turn the rooflet and keep cruisin...
Rock Climbing Photo: Eric stolkin' up for P1!
Eric stolkin' up for P1!
Rock Climbing Photo: Scotty at the crux section of P2. Stellar, left-fa...
Scotty at the crux section of P2. Stellar, left-fa...
Rock Climbing Photo: Eric stolkin'up before the 1st pitch.
Eric stolkin'up before the 1st pitch.

Comments on Mystery 13 Add Comment
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By Cale Farnham
Sep 18, 2009

Great route and good pro. Some spicy sections but very adventurous and very fun! Plan to get some rap bolts on this very soon!!
By Scott Matz
From: Loveland, CO
Sep 20, 2009

The second pitch is the bread and butta. I wouldn't say it's better than Slipstream but an awesome airy pitch. At the second belay, we all look up and seen 13 Tally marks under a small roof, spooky!!!
By Scott Matz
From: Loveland, CO
Sep 12, 2010

Did the second ascent with Phil and Eric. I would re-rate this at 10a for sure, requiring good smearing to round the roof.
By Eric Winne
Sep 16, 2010
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13

One of better routes in the BTC, sound rock in comparison to the majority of the canyon. Speak up if you know who did the FA. rap/belay anchors wouldn't hurt a bit.
By Andy Maguire
From: Estes park, CO
Mar 10, 2012

Great dihedral pitch! Really aesthetic position in the canyon. Without getting too technical, I'm giving it a 5.10a+.

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