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Penitente - Entrance Area
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Unsorted Routes:

Mysterious Redhead 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Bob D'Antonio, Mark Milligan, 7/86
Page Views: 1,973
Submitted By: Rog on Nov 8, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (48)
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BETA PHOTO: L to R: Twist of Fate, 11d; Nature of the Beast, 1...

Closed October 12th-15th, 2017 MORE INFO >>>


From the parking lot, follow the trail in. Mysterious Redhead is the first bolted line on the right. The total approach time is about a minute. A couple huecos down low to help you get started and then thins out as you get higher. This is a fun climb.


Per Izzy K.: this tricky 11a is definitely the SECOND bolted line (if walking from the entrance) on the rock formation.


4 (3?) bolts + anchors.

Photos of Mysterious Redhead Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: At the second bolt heading into the hard stuff.
At the second bolt heading into the hard stuff.
Rock Climbing Photo: Seth crimping for the final clip.
Seth crimping for the final clip.
Rock Climbing Photo: Setting up for the final move on Mysterious Redhea...
Setting up for the final move on Mysterious Redhea...
Rock Climbing Photo: Redhead on Mysterious Redhead.
Redhead on Mysterious Redhead.

Comments on Mysterious Redhead Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 1, 2017
By Jared Brown
Mar 9, 2002

I don't know Bob, sure looks like Mysterious Redhead to me, unless the guidebook I was using was wrong.
By Darrin Stein
From: Vancouver, WA
Mar 19, 2002

I have always known that outside route to be Mysterious Redhead as well. I was probably using the same guide book.
By Chris Cavallaro
Mar 20, 2002

If it's not Mysterious Redhead, what route is it?
By Chris Cavallaro
Mar 21, 2002

Bob, just asking.... Roger, thanks for the addition.
By Jared Brown
Mar 31, 2002

Is the actual climb the one that starts at the same place as the climb pictured and splits off left, or is it the next climb over that goes up the scoop on the left side of the face?
By Anonymous Coward
May 14, 2002

Wow, take it easy Bob, they're just trying to find out what the hell they were climbing. Mike
By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
May 15, 2002

The old guide book made Bob's description unambiguous since MR was the only line installed at the time. It's hard to imagine how the mix up occurred. Mysterious Redhead is the better line anyway being more continuous with tricky, and small, crimps throughout.
By Anonymous Coward
Jun 8, 2003

I looked at this rock this weekend and there seems to be three lines. The right-most (the one being climbed in the picture), I had assumed was Mysterious RedHead. The middle one (I believe it shares Mysterious Redhead's anchors), I thought was a 12a, and then there was one a bit further left that I thought was an 11d. I'm still confused, could someone explain which route is which and their ratings... Bob makes it sound as if the middle route (12a) is Mysterious Redhead. In any case, I really appreciate Bob's work in this canyon and especially his ethics!
By Michael Amato
Sep 7, 2004

Climbed this route again on 9/4/2004. It is the second line of bolts from the right, but note that there are only THREE bolts on this route plus the anchor as opposed to the four bolts listed in the new guidebook. The topo in the old guidebook shows four bolts as well, but the second from the ground in that topo is missing. Three bolts protects the difficulties quite well, though you don't want to biff it on the second clip...
By C Miller
From: CA
Jan 25, 2006
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Fun little climb - a good intro to the pleasures of Penitente.
By Doug Ranck
Aug 14, 2007

The route in the picture is not MR as stated by BD, BD did not put it in 'his' guide book because he did not put it up. It was put in before the bolting ban, which was initiated by BD because, and he also chopped another route that went up the slab/face to the right of the crack, just to left of the arch. The route is 4 bolts to a short chain anchor. I had named it Dirty Little Girl at 10c back in 4/92 but since then a few holds have broken off and it is a little harder in my opinion. If BD feels that way, maybe he should not include other routes that have been put in since the ban, or maybe he should have helped with the maintenance of routes in the canyon after they were installed. I used to climb with BD but haven't for years, we put up several routes together in the canyon, and he even gave me credit for some. Have fun climbing, all.
By Tim Waystrong
From: New Hampshire
Aug 30, 2011

This climb has 4 bolts to 2 bolts anchor, and is called Dirty Little Girl going at 5.10c. The one just to the left is Mysterious Redhead.
By A. Bandos
Jun 29, 2015

After the final 3rd bolt, this climb totally shut me down. Has anyone climbed it recently and can tell me if something broke off? Maybe I was missing something, but this definitely didn't feel 11a to me.
By Izzy K.
From: Boulder, CO
May 30, 2016

This tricky 11a is definitely the SECOND bolted line (if walking from the entrance) on the rock formation. 3 bolts + anchors.
By AndyMac
From: Center, CO
May 1, 2017

Funny, every single pic is NOT of Mysterious Redhead (named after the would be 4th bolt that was lost in the chokecherries).
No use trying to make this route "Morning Glory", post your sandbags on that page.
It is humorous that BD wanted a ban as he's bolted 4 or 5 routes in there a few years back.

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