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Myopia 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a R [details]
FA: Bruce Hildenbrand and Tom Sisson 8/78
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 118
Submitted By: Bruce Hildenbrand on Jul 5, 2015

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A runout route put up in old-school Tuolumne tradition. What's the opposite of 'vision'?

Pitch 1 - climb the discontinuous finger crack(5.7) to a two bolt anchor with quick links and chain.

Pitch 2 - head slightly right and up past two closely spaced bolts then up and right(5.10a) over a small roof to a third bolt. Climb 20-25 feet to a two-bolt anchor.

Pitch 3 - climb up and slightly right past three bolts(5.10a) to the two-bolt anchor which is shared by Diaphoretic Spasms.

Location 

This route is located to the left of Diaphoretic Spasms. Locate a discontinuous finger crack which leads to the right edge of a big arch.

To descend, either walk off to the right or rappel Diaphoretic Spasms.

Protection 

Stoppers and small stuff up to 1" for the finger crack on pitch 1. Bolts after that.


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